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where silver from the mines was shipped to the capital and beyond. Now a protected historic area, it consists of a couple of streets of well-preserved wooden buildings and two atmospheric public baths where you can soak up the mineral-rich waters with the locals. On the main street of the town, recognisable by the statue outside and the large blue sign, Motoyu Onsen (; 0855-65-2052; admission ¥300; 5.30am-9pm) traces its history back 1300 years, to when an itinerant priest came across a tanuki (racoon) nursing its wounded paw in the waters here. A short walk away on the other side of the street is the relatively modern Yakushinoyu Onsen (; 0855-65-4894; admission ¥300; 5am-9pm), discovered when hot water bubbled up from the ground after an earthquake in 1872. There are a number of places to stay here, including the 100-year-old Ryokan Masuya (0855-65-2515; fax 0855-65-2516; www.ryokan-masuya.com; per person with 2 meals from ¥10,600; ), down the street towards the sea from the two public baths. Some English is spoken, and accommodation is in tatami rooms (one Western-style room is available).

Iwami Ginzan

About 6km inland from Nima Station is the old Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine. In the early 17th century, the mine produced as much as 38 tonnes of silver annually, making it the most important mine in the country at a time when Japan was producing around a third of the world’s silver every year. The Tokugawa shogunate had direct control over the 500 or so mines in the area.

Ōmori is a small town near the mines, with carefully restored houses lining the main street. At the southernmost end of the street is the Iwami Ginzan Museum (; 89-0846; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm, to 4pm Dec-Feb), inside the Ōmori Daikansho Ato (; Former Magistrate’s Office). Not far up the old road on the left is the lovingly restored Kumagai Residence (; 89-9003; admission ¥500; 9.30am-5pm), rebuilt in 1801 after an earthquake destroyed most of the town the previous year. The house belonged to a merchant family who made their fortune as officials in the silver trade. To the left off the main road is an interesting temple, Rakan-ji (; 89-0005; 804 Ōmori-chō; admission ¥500; 8am-5pm), where 500 stone statues of the Buddha’s disciples crowd into two small caves beside stone bridges opposite the main temple building. The collection was completed in 1766, after 25 years of work.

A little over 2km further up the main street is the the Ryūgenji Mabu Shaft (; 89-0347; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm, to 4pm 24 Nov-19 Mar), which has been widened substantially from its original size. One glance at the original tunnel that stretches beyond the fence at the end of the accessible area should be enough to make most people glad they weren’t born as 17th-century miners. Past the Ryūgenji mine shaft, a hiking trail leads 12km to Yunotsu on the coast, following the old route along which silver was hauled to port.

The Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Centre (; 89-0183; 1597-3 Ōmori-chō; admission ¥300; 8.30am-5pm) has exhibits on the history of the mines and the surrounding area. Tours leave from here to the larger Ōkubo mineshaft (; 84-0750; tours ¥3800; 9.30am, 10am, 1.30pm & 2pm Fri-Sun & holidays Mar-Nov).

A good place for a break is Gungendō (; 89-0077; 183 Ōmori-chō Ōda-shi; coffee & tart set ¥1000; 10am-6pm, closed Wed), a swish cafe on the main street just before the Rakan-ji turning. It’s a large building on the corner with an orange post box outside. Close to the bus stop opposite the Daikansho-ato, O-shokuji-dokoro Ōmori (; 89-0106; 44-1 Ōmori-chō; ) is a good spot for lunch, where the daikan soba (¥1100) set features warigo soba (buckwheat noodles) and tempura.

The tourist information office (89-0333; 9am-5pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr) is by the car park close to Rakan-ji. Buses run to the Daikansho-ato from Ōda (¥560, 25 minutes, 18 per day) and Nima (¥390, 15 minutes, five per day) Stations; some buses continue on to the World Heritage Center. Within the mine area, shuttle buses connect the Daikansho-ato and the World Heritage Center every 15 minutes (¥200).

Sanbe-san