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cape, where you’ll find a beautiful lighthouse, some fine views and another shrine. On the way you’ll pass the pleasant Inasa-no-hama, a good swimming beach just 2km from Taisha Ekimae Station. This is where the gods arrive by sea for their annual pow-wow in the 10th month of the lunar calendar; a team of priests escorts them by night to their temporary lodgings at Izumo Taisha. Buses run from the station to the cape via the beach (¥530, 35 minutes, 13 per day). Bright-orange Hinomisaki-jinja, near the bus terminal, is an ancient shrine dedicated to Amaterasu and her brother Susa-no-o. The present structure was built on the orders of Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604–1651), the third Tokugawa shogun. Coastal paths head north and south from the car park, offering fine views, particularly from the top of the 1903 lighthouse (; admission ¥200; 9am-4.30pm).

Festivals & Events

The 10th month of the lunar calendar is known throughout Japan as Kan-na-zuki (Month without Gods). In Izumo, however, it is known as Kami-ari-zuki (Month with Gods), for this is the month when all the Shintō gods congregate at Izumo Taisha.

The Kamiari-sai festival is a series of events to mark the arrival of the gods in Izumo. It runs from the 11th to the 17th of the 10th month according to the old calendar; exact dates vary from year to year.

Sleeping & Eating

Izumo has ‘day trip’ written all over it: the area around the shrine is devoid of life after sunset. There’s slightly more going on in downtown Izumo, half an hour away by bus or train. If you’re determined to spend the night near the shrine, there are several inns around, including Fujiwara Ryokan (; 53-2009; fax 53-2524; Seimonmae Taisha-chō; s/tw with 2 meals ¥10,500/21,000; ), close to the shrine gates. It’s on the left as you walk from the station towards the shrine. Look for the large pine tree outside. There is the usual clutch of business hotels around the JR station in downtown Izumo, including Tōyoko Inn (; 25-1044; fax 25-2046; www.toyoko-inn.com; 971-13 Imaichi-chō; s/d ¥5250/7350; ), where internet access is available in the lobby.

Yashiroya (53-2596; 72-5 Kizuki-higashi Taisha-chō; 10am-7pm, closed Tue), opposite the museum, is a good place to try the local warigo soba (¥700). It’s the white building with a tiled roof. In Izumo city, Hanaman (; 21-3913; 928-12 Imaichi-chō; lunch & dinner, closed Wed) is a pleasant izakaya-style place with fresh fish and local sakes. It’s on the right as you head down the main street away from the station; look for the name of the restaurant in big black characters.

Getting There & Away

The private Ichibata line starts from Matsue Shinjiko-onsen Station in Matsue and runs along the northern side of Shinji-ko (Lake Shinsji) to Taisha Ekimae Station (¥790, one hour, with a transfer at Kawato, ). The JR line runs from JR Matsue Station to JR Izumo-shi Station (¥570, 42 minutes), where you can transfer to an Ichibata train to Izumo Taisha (¥480). There are also buses to the shrine from Izumo-shi Station (¥490, 25 minutes).

Izumo airport has daily flights to/from Tokyo (¥31,400, one hour and 20 minutes), Osaka (¥19,200, 55 minutes), Fukuoka (¥25,300, one hour and 10 minutes) and the Oki Islands (¥12,300, 30 minutes).

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MATSUE

0852 / pop 194,000

With its fine castle and spectacular sunsets over Shinji-ko (Lake Shinji), Matsue is a pleasant, laid-back city with some interesting historical attractions. The city straddles the Ōhashi-gawa, which connects Shinji-ko with Nakanoumi, a saline lake. Most of the sites are in a compact area in the north, where you’ll find the castle, a samurai residence and the house of Lafcadio Hearn.

Information

Shimane International Centre (31-5056; 3rd fl, Town Plaza Shimane, 8-3 Tonomachi; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, closed Sat, to 5pm Sun). Here you’ll find information, a small library and internet access.

Tourist information office (21-4034; 665 Asahi-machi; 9am-6pm) Directly in front of JR Matsue Station.

Sights

MATSUE-JŌ

Dating from 1611, picturesque Matsue-jō (Matsue Castle; 21-4030; 1-5 Tonomachi;