Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [396]
Sights & Activities
HIKING
The most popular walk starts from Goshiki-numa Iriguchi bus stop, and follows a 3.7km nature trail around Goshiki-numa (), an area of around a dozen bodies of water that are known as Five Colours Lakes. Mineral deposits from the eruption imparted various hues to the waters – cobalt blue, emerald green, reddish brown and so on – that change depending on the weather.
Bandai-san can be climbed in a day with an early start; the most popular route starts from the Bandai-kōgen bus stop, and climbs up through the skiing grounds to the summit. The descending trail takes you down to the town of Inawashiro.
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
The most popular ski area in the Bandai plateau is the Inawashiro-sukī-jō-chūō (62-3800; www.g-jmt.com/inawashiro/eng/index.php; 1-day lift ticket weekday/weekend ¥3000/3500; Dec-Apr), which has 15 runs in total. The majority of the trails are beginner and intermediate, and are largely devoid of large trees and moguls. There are two black diamond chutes if you want to get your kicks. There are also a number of restaurants on the premises, with plenty of English signage. Inawashiro-sukī-jō-chūō is located in the hills above Inawashiro town. During the ski season, frequent shuttle buses run between Inawashiro station and the resort (¥380, 20 minutes).
Sleeping & Eating
Urabandai Youth Hostel (32-2811; http://homepage3.nifty.com/urabandai/indexe.html; camping from ¥1000, dm with/without 2 meals from ¥4400/2900; cabin from ¥5000; late Apr-Nov; ) One of the region’s classic mountaineering institutions, the Ura Bandai Youth Hostel is supremely located next to the Goshiki-numa trailhead, approximately seven minutes walk from the Goshiki-numa Iriguchi bus stop (you can follow the signs). Choose one of the dorm rooms for a social atmosphere, grab a camping spot if you want to rough it or share a romantic cabin in the woods with your better half.
Urabandai Royal Hotel (32-3111; fax 32-3130; www.daiwaresort.co.jp/english/04_uraba.html; r with full board per person from ¥12,600; ) Far and beyond the smartest option in the area, the Royal Hotel offers full package deals that vary with the seasons – contact it in advance as you can sometimes score some cheaper rates. Plush rooms have sweeping views of the national park, while the sophisticated restaurants highlight the best in local and seasonal cuisine. There is also an onsite open-air onsen that is free for guests, or ¥500 for anyone who happens to stop by. LAN cable internet available.
Getting There & Away
Frequent express kaisoku run along the JR Banetsu-saisen line (¥480, 30 minutes) between Aizu-Wakamatsu and Inawashiro. From outside Inawashiro station, frequent buses depart from stop 3, and pass by the Goshiki-numa Iriguchi stop (¥750, 25 minutes), heading onto the Bandai-kōgen stop (¥820, 30 minutes).
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MIYAGI-KEN
Miyagi-ken is something of a buffer zone between the rural hinterlands of the far north and the massive urban development that typifies much of Honshū to the south. Its capital, Sendai, is Tohokū’s most cosmopolitan city, boasting excellent tourist infrastructure, a sophisticated restaurant scene, raucous nightlife and plenty of cultural attractions to boot. Of course, if you want to escape the urban trappings, and get back to the nature that most likely brought you up this way, then don’t miss the healing waters of Naruko Onsen, ‘Golden Mountain’ hiking and Matsushima, a worthy contender for the title of Japan’s most beautiful bay.
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SENDAI
022 / pop 1,020,000
Established by Date Masamune, Sendai or the city of ‘1000 generations’ was once a feudal capital that controlled trade routes, salt supplies and grain milling throughout much of Tōhoku. Although Masamune was eventually passed over for the role of shōgunate, his supporters remained loyal to the samurai’s vision. Even today, Masamune continues to reign over the city – the roof of Miyagi Stadium’s west stand is modelled after the unique crescent symbol