Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [413]
If you can’t make it to Nebuta, then don’t miss the Nebuta-no-sato Museum (; 738-1230; 1 Yaegiku, Yokouchi; admission ¥630; 9am-5.30pm), which tells the story of Aomori’s legendary festival. Buses to the museum, 9km south of town, leave frequently from stop 9 outside the train station for the Nebuta-no-sato Iriguchi stop (¥450, 30 minutes).
The Munakata Shikō Memorial Museum (; 777-4567; 2-1-2 Matsubara; admission ¥500; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun), about 5km east of the station, houses a collection of prints, paintings and calligraphy by Munakata Shikō, an Aomori native who won international fame. Buses bound for Nakatsutui leave from stop 2 outside the train station for the Munakata Shikō Kinenkan-dōri stop (¥190, 15 minutes).
The Aomori Museum of Art (;783-3000; 185 Yasuta-Aza Chikano; admission ¥500; 9am-6pm Jun-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-May, closed 2nd & 4th Mon of month), 1km west of the station, has a variety of works on display, including a large outdoor exhibition of Jōmon-era replicas that bring the lifestyles of these ancient people to life. It’s an easy 15-minute walk, and tourist information can mark it for you on its map.
South of the city is the Shōwa Daibutsu (; 726-2312; 458 Yamazaki, Kuwabara; admission ¥400; 8am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4.30pm Nov-Mar), Japan’s largest outdoor Buddha. At a height of 21m, and weighing 220 tonnes, it is an impressive sight. Five daily buses from JR Aomori station are timed so that you have about an hour to look around before catching the next bus back (¥540, 45 minutes).
Festivals & Events
The Nebuta Matsuri (; www.nebuta.or.jp/english/index_e.htm), held from 2 to 7 August, is renowned for its parades of colossal illuminated floats accompanied by thousands of rowdy, chanting dancers. The parades start at sunset and last for hours; on the final day the action starts around noon. As this is one of Japan’s most famous festivals, you will need to book in advance if you harbour any hopes of actually scoring a hotel room for a night or two.
Sleeping
Aomori Moya Kogen Youth Hostel (; 764-2888; 9-5 Yamabuki, Moya; dm from ¥3360; ) A nice alternative to the urban accommodation scene, this homey hostel lies in the ’burbs, about 12km from the JR Aomori station – buses departing from stop 9 outside the train station can drop you off outside the hostel (¥590, 40 minutes, last bus 8.20pm). The English-speaking owner loves Ireland, and is quick to welcome guests with a frothy pint of Guinness.
Tako Ryokan (722-4825; Yasukata 2-chōme; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥6800) Located about 1km east of the train station, and one block south of police headquarters, this easily identifiable traditional Japanese inn offers good-sized tatami rooms in addition to some serious seafood dinners.
Aomori Grand Hotel (723-1011; www.agh.co.jp; 1-1-23 Shin-machi; s/d from ¥6500/10,000; ) Just east of the station, across from Ai Plaza, this midrange business hotel is by far the best value in town. Spacious rooms, some with sea views, are regally appointed with modern furnishings, and you really can’t beat the central location. LAN cable internet available.
Hotel JAL City Aomori (732-2580; fax 735-2584; http://jalhotels.com; 2-4-12 Yasukata; s/tw ¥9400/16,100; ) If it is good enough for the Japan Airlines flight attendants, it is certainly good enough for us! Just a few blocks south of ASPAM, Aomori’s most luxurious offering is surprisingly affordable. Everything from the comfortable Western-style rooms to the business facilities are, not surprisingly, swish and sophisticated. LAN cable internet available.
Eating
The best place in Aomori to grab a snack is the fish and fresh food market (5am-6.30pm) in the Auga building near the station. Aomori is famous for a number of local and regional speciality items including apples, pickled vegetables, scallops, codfish and many, many others. You can easily spend an hour