Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [428]
The Chūren-ji (admission ¥500; 8.30am-5pm) mummy, which is no less freakish looking, is allegedly a reformed murderer who became a powerful Buddhist priest. From the bus stop, head north along the road, carefully following signs at all of the junctions. Appropriately enough, the temple is after the graveyard.
Buses are spaced about two hours apart, which leaves you enough time to look around, and still make your connection back to Tsuruoka.
Festivals & Events
The peak of Haguro-san is the site of several major festivals. During the Hassaku Matsuri (), yamabushi perform ancient fire rites to pray for a bountiful harvest (31 August and 1 September). During the Shōrei-sai () festival on New Year’s Eve, they perform similar rituals in competition with each other after completing 100-day-long austerities.
Courses
If you haven’t yet found your calling, consider becoming a yamabushi.
Dewa Sanzan-jinja (62-2355) This temple at the top of Haguro-san is where you should enquire about becoming a ‘real’ yamabushi. Note that these courses are extremely intense, not for the faint of heart and only really a viable option if you have a decent command of Japanese, and a good bit of time and money to burn.
Ideha Bunka Kinenkan (62-4727) For those who are happy being just a yamabushi ‘in-training’, this centre in Haguro village runs minicourses that include fasting, mountain sprints and morning wake-up calls. Again, you need to have a decent command of Japanese – phone ahead to enquire about dates and prices.
Sleeping & Eating
There are more than 30 shukubō in the Tōge district of Haguro village, as well as a few places on Haguro-san and around Yudosan-jinja, all charging around ¥7000 to ¥8000 per person including two meals. It’s also possible for nonguests to score a tasty vegetarian lunch for around ¥1500 (reservations recommended).
Saikan (62-2357; r per person incl 2 meals ¥7350) The most famous shukubō, located at the top of Haguro-san, this atmospheric lodging has sweeping views over the valley below, and is a good spot to spend the night and break up the hike.
Yudono-san Sanrōjo (54-6131; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥7350; closed Nov-Apr) At the end of your second day, consider staying here. It’s conveniently located next to Sennin-zawa bus terminal and is a fun spot to unwind with other successful pilgrims.
Yudono-san Hotel (54-6231; r per person from ¥8500) Alternatively, you can catch the bus or hike down the road to this hotel, a much more modern option than the temple lodgings. A hot bath and a cold beer at the end of a hike is close enough to nirvana.
Getting There & Around
The following transport information is subject to change due to the area’s variable weather conditions. For this reason, it is advised that you get the latest bus timetables from tourist information in Tsuruoka before setting out.
Note that directions are given in the same sequence as the trek.
Hourly buses run from Tsuruoka to the Haguro Centre bus stop (¥680, 45 minutes), several of which then continue on to Haguro-sanchō (Haguro summit; ¥990, one hour).
From early July to late August, and then on weekends and holidays until late September, there are up to four daily buses from Haguro-sanchō to Gas-san as far as Hachigōme (¥1240, one hour).
Between June and early November, there are up to four daily buses from the Yudono-san Sanrōjo trailhead at Yudono-san to Tsuruoka (¥1480, 1½ hours), which also passes by the Yudono-san Hotel (¥100, five minutes) and Ōami (¥910, 45 minutes). Regular buses between Tsuruoka and Yamagata also run via the Yudono-san Hotel.
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YAMAGATA
023 / pop 255,000
Yamagata is a thriving industrial city with a sizable student population, making for a more youthful vibe than in comparable inaka (rural) cities. While it’s a bit short on sights, Yamagata is a good base for day trips to Yamadera, Tendō and