Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [430]
On the last weekend in April, Tendō-kōen hosts the theatrical Ningen Shōgi, when outdoor chess matches are played using real people as pieces.
There are regular futsū on the JR Ōu line between Yamagata and Tendō (¥820, 45 minutes).
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ZAŌ ONSEN
023 / pop 14,000
The centrepiece of Zaō Quasi National Park, Zaō Onsen is a small hot-springs town with some of the best skiing in the region. While there are bigger and badder runs further north in Hokkaidō, Zaō Onsen is famous for its ‘snow monsters’, which are huge conifers that have been frozen solid by Siberian winds. Other times of the year, Zaō attracts visitors with great hiking opportunities, a relaxed atmosphere, and – of course – the chance to soak in the dai-rotemburo, a tub so big that it can literally hold hundreds of bathers.
Orientation & Information
Near Zaō bus terminal, the tourist information office (694-9328; 9am-5.30pm) can advise on accommodation, skiing and transport options. Zaō has a complex network of 14 ski runs and more than 30 chairlifts – pick up The Skier’s Guide (in Japanese), which has colourful maps to help you get your bearing.
Skiing starts in December and runs through April, while the dai-rotemburo is open from May to October.
Sights & Activities
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
Zaō may be relatively small, but there is plenty here for beginner and intermediate skiers, in addition to a few challenging black-diamond runs. Regardless of your level, you’re primarily here to ski or (snowboard) through fields of snow monsters, which at times can be a truly surreal experience. Snow monsters are at their best in February, and reach their greatest density in the Juhyō Kōgen () or ‘Ice Monster Plateau.’
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SKIING
For wo stats, maps and reviews, check out www.snowjapan.com/e/index.php.
Bandai Plateau
Tazawa-ko
Zaō Onsen
Myōkō Kōgen
Naeba
Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen
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One-day passes start at ¥4800, and grant you access to the slopes and lifts as well as the free shuttle buses running between them. The Zaō-san Ropeway (; one way/return ¥750/1400; 8.30am-5pm), a 10-minute walk southeast of the bus station, runs to Juhyō-kōgen, providing a bird’s-eye view of the snow monsters. Note that passes do not cover the ropeways or the sky cable.
HIKING
In the summer, you can hike up to Okama (), a volcanic crater of shimmering cobalt blue that sits atop Zaō-san. Hiking around the lake is a joy, with Buddhist statues and monuments hidden among the greenery.
The most convenient access is via Katta Chūsha-jōcar park, where the Zaō Sky Cable (; one way/return ¥750/1200; 8.30am-5pm) takes you to within spitting distance of the Okama overlook.
ONSEN
In the winter, onsen action is a private affair that takes place either back at the hotel, or at several small bathhouses scattered around the town. In the summer, however, hikers congregate en masse for a soak at the Zaō Onsen Dai-rotenburo (; admission ¥450; 6am-7pm May-Oct), where each outdoor hot-spring pool can hold up to 200 people. The sulphur-stained rocks set the stage for the spectacle that is hundreds of complete strangers bathing naked together.
Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation abounds, but advance reservations are essential if visiting during the ski season or on weekends in summer. If you speak Japanese, it pays to call ahead – alternatively, have tourist information phone around for a vacancy.
Ginrei Honten (; 694-9120; www.community-i.com/zao/ginrey.html; 940-5 Zaō Onsen; r per person with/without meals ¥6500/3500; ) A great budget option offering simple rooms with shared facilities, this casual minshuku is run by welcoming owners dedicated to fostering a warm, communal atmosphere. Find it by going right from the bus station,