Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [460]
Sleeping
There are several rider houses and cycling terminals in and around Otaru, which offer cheap accommodation in the ¥1000 to ¥1500 range. Ask at the tourist information centres for detailed directions as they can sometimes be a bit difficult to find.
Otarunai Backpackers’ Hostel Morinoki (; 23-2175; 4-15 Aioi-chō; http://backpackers-hostel.infotaru.net; dm ¥3200; ) Catering specifically to ‘free and independent travellers’, this is a great little backpacker spot that is worlds apart from your usual Japan YH offerings. Accommodation is in fairly simple male and female dormitories, though guests are treated to kitchen, laundry and internet facilities, as well as bilingual staff, communal lounges and a laid-back and congenial vibe. The hostel is about a 20-minute walk from the JR Otaru station – exit, turn right and head straight through a series of traffic lights until you see the au mobile shop on the left-hand side. Turn left here, and continue straight until you see the big stone gate; make a right and you’ll see the hostel on your left-hand side after about 100m.
Otaru Tengu-yama (; 33-6944; www.tengu.co.jp/english/index.html; 2-13-1 Mogami; r per person from ¥3800; ) A bit outside the city centre, three adjacent properties – the Honkan, the Villa and the Sanrokukan – are all run by the Otaru Tengu-yama association. All three buildings are slightly different in character, though the theme is constant throughout, namely cheap but pleasant accommodation aimed at nonfussy budget travellers. Take bus 9 from JR Otaru station to the final stop (¥200, 20 minutes), which drops you off right near the property at the foot of Mt. Tengu – ask the driver to point it out to you.
Hotel Vibrant Otaru (31-3939; www.vibrant-otaru.jp; 1-3-1 Ironai; s/d from ¥5500/6500, vault r from ¥10,500; ) A stylish renovation of a historic Otaru bank resulted in this justifiably ‘vibrant hotel’, which is located across the road from the main post office. The lobby is very attractive with period-piece furniture including wrought-iron tables, while the rooms themselves are priced according to their size and shape. For a memorable night’s stay, shell out a bit of extra cash and bed down in the old bank vault! LAN cable internet available.
Hotel Nord Otaru (24-0500; www.hotelnord.co.jp/english/index.htm; 1-4-16 Ironai; s/d from ¥7350/12,600; ) A charismatic European-style hotel that overlooks the warehouses along Otaru Canal, the upmarket Hotel Nord offers a variety of rooms with soft lighting and clean lines. The hotel is also home to a fabulous Mediterranean restaurant that makes proper use of Otaru’s legendary seafood. LAN cable internet available.
Otaru Grand Hotel Classic (22-6500; http://otaru-grand-hotel.tabite.jp, in Japanese; 1-8-25 Ironai; s/d from ¥8400/16,800; ) Another former bank turned hotel, the Otaru Grand Hotel Classic is adjacent to the post office, and is its own slice of history. As one of the first foreign-friendly hotels in town, the building offers tastefully styled Western rooms that are accented with nostalgia-inducing leaded glass windows overlooking the city streets. LAN cable internet available. To get here, exit the station, turn right and head straight through a series of traffic lights until you see the intersection between the tracks and the road. Turn left just before, and continue straight until you see the Otaru Grand hotel.
Eating & Drinking
If you’re the type of person who enjoys scouting out good eateries before sitting down at the table, check out the Denuki-kōji (1-1 Ironai; 10am-8pm), located on the southern banks of Asakusa-bashi. This tourist-friendly complex contains a dozen or so restaurants spanning a variety of cuisines – most have plastic models out front to help attract indecisive diners.
Kita no Ice Cream Yasan (23-8983; 1-2-18 Ironai; ice cream from ¥350; 9.30am-7pm) A legendary Otaru institution across from Denuki-kōji (look for the English sign), Kita no Ice Cream Yasan scoops some seriously stomach-turning flavours including nattō (fermented soy beans),