Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [474]
Getting There & Around
For information on accessing Daisetsuzan National Park, Click here.
AIR
Asahikawa’s small airport is located about 15km outside the city. From here, there are domestic flights to various destinations including Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya and others. Buses between the airport and JR Asahikawa station (¥570, 35 minutes) are timed to connect with arrivals and departures.
BUS
Some sample destinations, which have frequent daily departures from the bus stops in front of the JR Asahikawa station, include Sapporo (¥2000, two hours), Furano (¥860, 1½ hours), Biei (¥520, 50 minutes) and Wakkanai (¥4700, 4¾ hours).
CAR
If you want to pick up a car before heading either north, south or east, the recommended Toyota Rent a Car (23-0100; 9-396-2 Miyashitadōri8am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8am-7pm Nov-Mar); 19-2 Ōtemachi 8am-8pm) has a branch office right outside the station.
TRAIN
Super Kamui tokkyū run twice an hour between Asahikawa and Sapporo (¥4480, 1½ hours). There are just a couple of tokkyū on the JR Sōya line each day between Asahikawa and Wakkanai (¥8070, 3¾ hours), and on the JR Sekihoku line between Asahikawa and Abashiri (¥7750, four hours). Finally, there are regular kaisoku on the JR Furano line between Asahikawa and Furano (¥1040, 1¼ hours) via Biei (¥530, 40 minutes).
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WAKKANAI
0162 / pop 41,000
Wakkanai, Japan’s most northern mainland city, changes wildly with the seasons. From November to March, it’s something akin to a remote Siberian outpost, home to hearty fishermen, kelp farmers and a harp-seal colony. Outside the winter months, it’s a pleasantly mild port city that serves as a departure point for ferries to Rishiri-tō and Rebun-tō, two dramatic wildflower-dotted islands that rank amongst Hokkaidō’s highlights, and – assuming you have your visa in order – the Russian city of Karsakov.
Orientation & Information
JR Wakkanai station is right next to the bus terminal, and both are just 10 minutes on foot to the ferry port. If you’re heading out to the islands (or Russia), it’s wise to stock up on money – an international ATM is available at the post office (8.45am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun). Also be sure to pick up maps and get your bearings at the tourist information counter (22-1216; www.welcome.wakkanai.hokkaido.jp, in Japanese; 10am-6pm) inside the train station.
Wakkanai is small enough for most of the sights to be reached on foot or bicycle. Bikes are available for ¥500 per day (June to September) through the Wakkanai Town Management Organization (TMO; 29-0277; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri). Pick one up during the week from the TMO office in the shopping arcade two blocks north of the station, and on Saturdays and Sundays at the eyeglass shop Megane-no-Nagano (;22-7070; 10am-5pm), also in the arcade.
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FERRY TO/FROM RUSSIA
From mid-May to late-October, an unusual excursion from Wakkanai is a ferry trip to the city of Korsakov on Sakhalin Island in Russia. Most Japanese tourists make this journey with a tour group, but with a little advanced planning, it’s fairly easy to go on your own.
In order to qualify for a Russian tourist visa, you will need to obtain an invitation letter from a hotel or tourist agency in the country. With an advanced reservation, this letter can usually be emailed to you without any hassle.
You can then apply for the visa at either the Russian Embassy (Map; 03-3583-4445; www.rusconsul.jp; 2-1-1, Azabudai, Minato-ku, Tokyo; 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) in Tokyo or at the Russian Consulate (; 064-0914; Nishi 12-chōme Minami 14-jo, Chūō-ku; 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) in Sapporo. Note that fees vary considerably depending on your nationality, and waits of up to two weeks are not uncommon.
From Wakkanai-kō, Heartland Ferry (; 011-233-8010) operates four to nine monthly ferries (May to October) in both directions between Wakkanai and Karsakov (7½ hours). Tickets can be purchased at the office beside the ferry pier. A 2nd-class one-way/return ticket costs ¥24,000/38,000 – if you’re not returning to Japan, you may be