Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [477]
If you don’t feel like heading all the way to the summit, there are several other hikes that are pretty, but less strenuous. One of these follows the track from Oshidomari for an hour past the Hokuroku Camping Ground towards the summit, veering left into thick forest about 10 minutes after passing a group of A-frame chalets at the end of a paved road. In 1¾ hours, this track leads to Hime-numa, with the option of a 30-minute side trip to Pon-yama. From Hime-numa it’s 6km to Oshidomari along Rte 108.
Rishiri-Fuji Onsen (; 82-2388; ¥500) makes the most of its plain building with Jacuzzis, mountain-view rotemburo, saunas and indoor baths. The onsen is a 30-minute walk from Oshidomari en route to the Horuroku camping ground and start of the Rishiri-zan track; a couple of buses a day (¥150, 10 minutes) pass here from Oshidomari.
Bicycling is a great way to see the island – rent them from the youth hostels or shops near the Oshidomari ferry terminal – a leisurely circuit of the island (56km) takes anywhere from five to seven hours. There is also a 29km cycling path that runs through woods and coastal plains from Oshidomari past Kutsugata.
SLEEPING & EATING
It’s best to phone ahead in the winter months as the places listed here are closed irregularly. Note that eating is best done at the various hotels as restaurants are limited on the island.
Camping
Rishiri-tō has about a half-dozen camping grounds: all are open from May to October, and some are even free.
The most useful of the lot is the Hokuroku Camping Ground (82-2394; camp sites/cabins per person ¥300/3000), which is located right near the start of the Rishiri-zan track.
If you happen to find yourself in Kutsugata, Kutsugata-Misaki Camping Ground (84-2345), just south of the ferry terminal, doesn’t charge a single yen (probably because the wind can really pick up here!).
Hotels
Rishiri Green Hill Youth Hostel (82-2507; www.youthhostel.or.jp/English/n_rishiri.htm; dm from ¥3360; Mar-Sep) About 25 minutes’ walk from Oshidomari port or a short bus ride to the Gurīn-Hiru-Yūsu-Hosuteru-mae stop, the island’s youth hostel is an excellent spot for assembling an impromptu hiking party to tackle Rishiri-zan. Spotless dormitories, sea views and a very congenial and fun-loving staff sweeten the deal.
Pension Misaki (82-1659; fax 82-2176; www.misaki.burari.biz/sub01.htm in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals Sep-May ¥7875, Jun-Aug ¥8925) An informal place with harbour-view, Japanese-style rooms and a Japanese bath, this whitewashed pension is just a few minutes on foot from Oshidomari port. While it’s definitely not the fanciest place on the island, it is a decent midrange option where you can expect good service and hearty seafood dinners.
Rishiri Fuji Kankō Hotel (82-1531; fax 82-1897; www15.plala.or.jp/fujikan in Japanese; per person incl 2 meals from ¥15,900; closed Dec-Feb; ) Just two minutes on foot from the port, Oshidomari’s most upmarket offering is a firm favourite for package holiday makers. Although the Fuji Kankō can be positively swamped during summer months, it offers low-key but luxurious Western- and Japanese-style rooms, as well as full resort amenities. LAN cable internet available.
Island Inn Rishiri (84-3002; fax 84-3340; www .island-inn-rishiri.com in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals ¥16,500; ) Few tourists pass through Kutsugata, though this surprisingly sophisticated resort hotel is reason enough to make a temporary base here. Just behind the ferry terminal, the Island Inn offers Western-style rooms with either ocean or mountain views, in addition to a banquet hall serving traditional Japanese-style meals, and a wonderfully invigorating onsen-fed bath. LAN cable internet