Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [481]
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FURANO
0167 / pop 25,230
Humorously known as Heso-no-machi (Bellybutton Town), Furano is in the centre of Hokkaidō: the middle. This geographical distinction has given rise to the town’s famous bellybutton festival, though there is much more to Furano than bare navels. One of Japan’s most inland towns, Furano receives extreme amounts of powdery snow, and is ranked as one the country’s top skiing and snowboarding destinations.
Surprisingly, however, a continental climate descends on the area outside the winter months, fostering a burgeoning wine industry, producing award-winning cheeses and enabling sprawling fields of lavender to spring to life. For Japanese tourists who can’t spring the time and money to visit the south of France, Furano is regarded as something of a close second.
Orientation & Information
In the winter months, all of the action is centred on the Furano Prince and New Furano Prince hotels (Click here). If it’s not ski-season, all eyes shift to the dramatic landscape surrounding the town, which is best explored by car or bike.
Outside JR Furano station is the tourist information office (23-3388; www.furanotourism.com/english/home.htm; 9am-6pm), where you can stock up on maps and pamphlets, get some last-minute help booking accommodation, rent bicycles and even check your internet for free.
Sights & Activities
The countryside around Furano is stunning in its own right, though there are a number of gourmand attractions worth checking out. Frequent shuttle buses leave from bus stop 4 across from the JR Furano station, stopping at the various sights listed here (per trip ¥150).
As a word of caution, Furano’s roads have the highest rate of traffic fatalities in the country, so take care if you’re driving or biking, especially if the roads are icy. Also, be sure to pick up a good map from tourist information as it’s very easy to get lost in the mountains.
If you’re not going skiing or getting behind the wheel, the Furano Wine Factory (Map; 22-3242; 9am-4.30pm, closed weekends Nov-Apr), about 4km northwest of the station, gives tours explaining the wine-making process and offers the complimentary tipple.
If you’re going skiing or getting behind the wheel, the nearby Furano Grape Juice Factory (Map; 23-3033; 9am-4.30pm, closed weekends Sep-May), about 1.5km away, gives tours explaining the grape juice-making process and offers the complimentary nonalcholic tipple.
Foodies could then continue on to the Furano Cheese Factory (Map; 23-1156; 9am-5pm May-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Apr, closed 1st & 3rd Sat & Sun of month Nov-Apr), which has select tastes – try the squid ink brie, among others. Adjacent is the Furano Ice Milk Factory (Map), which offers cool treats to beat the summer heat.
From roughly June to September, JR actually opens up a temporary station to accommodate the influx of tourists, namely Lavender Batake (Lavender Farm; Map). Occasional trains between Biei and Furano stop here, providing easy access to the stunning lavender fields at Farm Tomita (Map; 39-3939; www.farm-tomita.co.jp/en; admission free; 9am-4.30pm Oct-late Apr, 8.30am-6pm late Apr-Sep).
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
The FIS World Cup and Snowboarding World Cup are held here yearly at the Furano Ski-jō (Map; 22-1111; www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/furano_e/index.html; lift tickets full day/night only ¥4000/1500; day 8.30am-5pm, night 5-9pm), which lies between the two Prince hotels. The slopes are a mix between beginner and intermediate, with a small section devoted to advanced. The fastest gondola in Japan whisks you to the top, where 24 runs cover three mountainsides, all with perfect powder snow. Night skiing is available, and snowboarding is allowed on all slopes.
Furano is not nearly as expansive as Niseko, and you’re likely to be disappointed by the lack of off-piste skiing and comparative lack of advanced runs. However, Furano is comparatively undiscovered by foreigners, and retains a much more authentic Japanese atmosphere. The two Prince