Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [492]
The Akan Kohan Eco-Museum Centre (; 67-4100; admission free; 9am-5pm Wed-Mon) on the eastern edge of town has well-maintained exhibits with lots of photographs, and a number of marimo in aquarium tanks. It also has hiking maps and displays about the local flora and fauna. The bokke (bubbling clay pools) walk starts from the museum, and makes a shaded, breezy loop out to the lake and back through some pine forest, with views of obliging tufted-eared squirrels, chipmunks and birds.
The best way to actually get up close and personal with marimo is to take a sightseeing cruise (67-2511; www.akankisen.com/_eng/index.html, in Japanese; 1hr trip ¥1750), which makes a 45-minute loop from the docks around the lake. All boats stop for a somewhat meagre 15 minutes at the Marimo Exhibition and Observation Center, where you can hopefully spot a few balls of algae photosynthesising on the surface of the water.
Hiking
About 6km east of Akan Kohan is O-Akan-dake (; Male Mountain; 1371m). Buses to Kushiro pass the Takiguchi trail entrance five minutes out of Akan Kohan. The ascent takes a fairly arduous 3½ hours, and the descent takes about another 2½ hours. From the peak there are very fine views of the lakes Penketō and Panketō, and on clear days you can see as far as Daisetsuzan National Park.
The highest mountain in the park, Me-Akan-dake (; Female Mountain; 1499m), is an active volcano that is usually closed due to emissions of poisonous gas. Ask at the tourist information office about current conditions.
The shorter climb to the observation platform on Hakutō-zan (; 650m) affords fine views of the lakes and the surrounding peaks. Starting 2km south of town, the ascent takes about an hour, winding through birch and fir forests and past several groups of bubbling sulphur hot springs (too hot to bathe in: don’t try!).
SLEEPING
As in Kawayu Onsen, camping in and around Akan Kohan is a good option. There are several places to choose from, though the most convenient is Akan Lakeside Campsite (; 67-3263; 5-1 Akan Onsen; camp sites per person ¥630; Jun-Sep; ), about a five-minute walk west of the village centre. Here, you’ll find plenty of shady pitches, and even an ashiyu for cleaning off those muddy feet.
Nonaka Onsen Youth Hostel (0156-29-7454; http://www.youthhostel.or.jp/English/e_nonaka.htm; Ashoro-chō Moashoro 159; dm from ¥2835, breakfast/dinner ¥630/1050; ) Complete with its own onsen, this is a very popular spot that’s often booked solid by hikers in the busy summer months. The remote hostel is snuggled between a forested hillside and the shores of Onneto-ko off of Rte 241. It’s preferable that you have your own car if you stay here, though buses bound for Meakan Onsen can drop you if you ask the driver
Yamaguchi (;67-2555; www.tabi-hokkaido.co.jp/~yamaguchi/english; 5-3-2 Akan Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals ¥5925; ) This family run Japanese-style inn, located in downtown Akan Kohan, is surprisingly affordable and caters well to foreign travellers. The secret to success here is focusing solely on the basics: traditional Japanese cooking following a therapeutic soak in high mineral content hot spring-fed baths.
New Akan Hotel Shangri-la (; 67-2121; http://www.newakanhotel.co.jp/english/index.htm; d incl 2 meals from ¥12,000; ) One of the largest hotels in town, the pretentious sounding Shangri-la lacks the personality of the smaller inns, though its luxurious multipooled baths are some of the best around. The fake planetarium in the lobby – though impressive – is a bit over the top. Note that prices vary considerably according