Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [494]
Hokkaidō isn’t Japan. Seriously. I mean, have you ever walked to the bus stop in Tokyo, and wondered whether or not you would cross paths with a bear?
Tomo from Furano
Have you tasted our crab? It’s the best in world. I’ve never been to Alaska, but I don’t need to go. We catch it right here, and eat it right here, and that’s why it’s the best.
Daisuke from Wakkanai
Do you have uni (sea urchin roe) in your country? I love to buy uni fresh from the market, and than mix it with cream and eat it with pasta. It’s delicious!
Mariko from Otaru
We invented beer, right here in Sapporo! Well, I guess maybe it came from Germany first, but the Japanese were drinking sake before we came to the rescue!
Haruki from Sapporo
This island makes you tough. Tokyoites complain when the rains soaks their shoes. We complain when the snow buries our houses.
Ichiro from Kushiro
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Kushiro’s small airport is located about 10km northwest of the city. From here, there are domestic flights to various destinations including Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya and others. Buses between the airport and JR Kushiro station (¥910, 45 minutes) are timed to connect with arrivals and departures.
BUS
There are a couple of buses a day between Sōunkyō Onsen and Kushiro (¥4790, 5¼ hours) via Akan Kohan (¥1530, 2¼ hours).
CAR
Rte 319 runs north–south between Abashiri and Kushiro.
TRAIN
There are just a couple of futsū each day on the JR Senmō main line between Kushiro and Abashiri (¥3570, 3½ hours) via Shiretoko-shari (¥2730, 2½ hours), Kawayu Onsen (¥1790, 1½ hours) and Kushiro Shitsugen (¥350, 20 minutes).
Nemuro
0153 / pop 3100
This tiny town’s main attraction is its view of several islands that currently belong to Russia, despite being the subject of heated debate. On a clear day you get a view of the Hoppōryōdo (Kuril Islands), which are in dispute mainly because of their prime fishing grounds below the surface. English signage is limited, mainly plaques protesting the donation of these lands to Russia. It’s the easternmost part of Japan, so those travellers who like to collect ‘-mosts’ should be sure to come here.
At the tip, Nosappu-misaki, you will find some pricey souvenir shops, a museum centre (; 28-2445; 9am-5pm Mar-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Feb) with a brief history of the area (in Japanese), monuments near the cliffside, a viewing tower (; 28-3333; admission ¥900; 8.30am-15 min after sunset) and a few restaurants.
The bus between Nemuro JR station and Nosappu-misaki passes a number of interesting kelp-drying areas, which are self-explanatory if kelp is being dried: it looks like black strips of twisted leather stretched in rows on the ground; otherwise, these areas look like well-maintained gravel car parks.
There are a few futsū each day on the JR Nemuro line between Kushiro and Nemuru (¥2420, 2½ hours). Buses, which are timed with train arrivals, bring you from the train station out to Nosappu-misaki (one way/return ¥1040/1900, 50 minutes). Buses leave Nosappu-misaki about every two hours until 6.35pm.
Shari
0152 / pop 13,000
Shari is the closest major settlement to Shiretoko National Park, and there is little reason not to continue pressing on to the park. Before you do, however, the tourist information office (23-2424; 17 Minato-machi; 10am-5pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct) helps supplement the information given at the park’s nature centre. Shari’s bus centre is to the left as you exit the JR Shiretoko-shari station.
Koshimizu Gensei Kaen (; 63-4187; admission free; closed Nov-Apr) is an 8km stretch of wildflowers along the coast, only 20 minutes from Shari. Visit in late June with your own wheels and catch it