Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [496]
Sleeping
Shiretoko Iwaobetsu Youth Hostel (24-2311; www4.ocn.ne.jp/~iwayh, in Japanese; dm from ¥1800; Mar-Nov) In the small village of Iwaobetsu, just off of Rte 334, this hostel is a popular base for hikers as it provides easy access to the Shiretoko-go-ko region. As well as organising hiking parties, it also provides numerous chances to spot wildlife. Bear, deer and fox are all regulars in the surrounding woods, and the staff know exactly where and when is the best time to see them.
Marumi (88-1313; www.shiretoko-rausu.com, in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals ¥9300; ) There are not many reasons to stay overnight in Rausu, but right by the seaside is the well-regarded ryokan which features attractive tatami rooms, lovely seafood meals, a rotemburo and even a sauna. This is also a great place to build up your energy either before or after you summit Rausu-dake.
Kinoshita-goya (;24-2824; dm ¥1575; Jun-Sep) If you happen to get tired during the hike to Rausu-dake, you can always overnight at a mountain hut offering spartan accommodation right at the Rausu-dake trailhead. It is often booked solid in the summer months, so call ahead.
Getting There & Around
There are between five and nine buses daily between Shari and Utoro (¥1490, 50 minutes), but only three in summer that continue on as far as Iwaobetsu (¥1770, 1¼ hours).
From late April to October, buses run four times daily from Utoro (¥900, 50 minutes) along the northern side of the peninsula, passing the nature centre, the youth hostel, Shiretoko-go-ko and Kamuiwakka-no-taki before terminating at Shiretoko-ōhashi. During this time frame, there are also buses four times daily between Utoro and Rausu via the dramatic Shiretoko-Toge pass (¥1310, 55 minutes).
Finally, there are up to five daily buses between Rausu and Kushiro (¥4740, 3½ hours).
While not essential, having a car will make it easier to access the park, and to move up and down the coastline, though again, be advised that the vast majority of Shiretoko does not have any roads.
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WARNING: BEAR ACTIVITY
The peninsula of Shiretoko-hantō is home to around 600 brown bears, one of the largest bear populations in Japan. Park pamphlets warn visitors that, once they enter Shiretoko National Park, they should assume that bears could appear at any time. Favourite bear haunts include Shiretoko-go-ko (; Shiretoko Five Lakes) and the falls of Kamuiwakka-no-taki.
Hikers are strongly advised not to go into the forest in the early morning or at dusk, and to avoid hiking alone. Carrying a bell or some other noise-making device is also recommended (bears don’t like surprises). If you’re camping, tie up your food and do not bury your rubbish. Bear activity picks up noticeably during early autumn, when the creatures are actively foraging for food ahead of their winter hibernation. Visitors should be especially cautious at this time.
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TOKACHI
The name Tokachi is as synonymous with wine in Japan as Beaujolais is for Westerners. While its name doesn’t fit neatly in with the cardinal monikers of Hokkaidō’s other subprefectures, Tokachi was a historic but short-lived province that was established in the late 19th century. Today, the region is largely agricultural and has few major tourists draws, though it does boast some lively wine-scented countryside that’s worth exploring if you have some time at the end of your trip.
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OBIHIRO
0155 / pop 171,000
A former Ainu stronghold, the modern city of Obihiro was founded in 1883 by the Banseisha, a group of colonial settlers from Shizuoka Prefecture. Squeezed in between the Hidaka and Daisetsuzan mountain ranges, Obihiro is a friendly, laid-back city without much for tourists, though you’re likely to pass through en route to Ikeda or Erimo-misaki.
Tokachi Tourist Information (23-6403;