Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [511]
Sansuien (822-0131; www.sansuien.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-3-35 Takajō-machi; per person with meals from ¥13,800; ) Three blocks south of the castle along Kenchō-mae Dōri is this classy multistorey hotel with luxurious onsen baths and a garden incorporating a series of buildings that once formed part of the daimyō’s residence. Nonguests can use the baths from 10am to 4pm (¥900).
Eating
Kōchi’s main entertainment district is in the area around the Obiyamachi arcade and the Harimaya-bashi junction where the tram lines meet. Local specialities include katsuo tataki (lightly seared bonito fish), which is on the menu of just about every restaurant in town.
Hirome Ichiba (822-5287; 2-3-1 Obiyamachi; 8am-11pm, from 7am Sun) This lively collection of food stalls just east of the castle is a good spot for cheap eats and drinks. Be on the lookout for gomoku rāmen, which is a hearty mix of rāmen (noodles) and Kōchi’s abundant fresh seafood.
Jidorian (871-5008; 1-7-27 Ōte-suji; 6pm-1am) A popular yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) joint animated by the sounds of jazz and sizzling chicken. Good options include the yakitori moriawase (seven kinds of chicken skewers; ¥740). It’s on the corner of Green Rd, a small street lined at night with open-air noodle stalls.
Hakobe (823-0084; 1-2-5 Obiyamachi; 11am-midnight) In the Obiyamachi arcade, this simple place is good for a cheap and filling meal. Take your pick of okonomiyaki (¥630) with buta (pork), ika (squid), ebi (shrimp) or tori (chicken) and cook it yourself on the hotplate at your table. There’s a picture menu, and there are plastic food displays in the window.
Uofuku (824-1129; 2-13 Nijūdai-chō; 5-11pm, closed Sun) Sit at one of the tables in the small raised tatami area or squeeze in at the counter of this friendly izakaya, where the fish comes from a large tank by the door. The menu is a mess of kanji; try the katsuo tataki (around ¥1200) or ask for osusume (a recommendation). This is a good place for adventurous eaters to try shutō – the pickled and fermented innards of the bonito fish (¥450), which locals regard as a delicacy.
Tosa-han (821-0002; 1-2-2 Obiyamachi; 11.30am-10pm) This smart restaurant in the Obiyamachi arcade is a good place to try the traditional cuisine. Bentō (boxed meals) start at around ¥900; katsuo (bonito) is prepared in different ways, including as sashimi (raw; ¥1200) and katsuo tataki (seared; ¥1300). There is a wide variety of fresh fish from all along the coast, and a picture menu to help you choose. There’s a picture of Sakamoto Ryōma looking typically purposeful on the sign outside.
Tokugetsurō (882-0101; 1-17-3 Minami-harimaya-chō; lunch & dinner) Open since 1870, this traditional restaurant is an elegant place to try local Tosa-ryōri (Tosa cuisine) in tatami rooms overlooking a garden. The menu consists of a short list of set courses featuring local fish such as bonito and sea bream, according to what’s in season. If the thought of eating whale meat is offensive to you, keep away from menu items featuring kujira (), which is the Japanese word for whale. The restaurant is in a building with an imposing wooden facade across from the Dentetsu Tāminaru-biru Mae tram stop. If you’re on a budget, bentō specials start at ¥2625; expect to pay at least twice as much in the evening.
Drinking
Tosa-no-izakaya Ippon-zuri (825-3676; 2F Sunshine Fujiwara Bldg, 1-5-5 Obiyamachi; 5pm-midnight) In the Obiyamachi shopping arcade (look for the lanterns and menu boards outside), this popular izakaya has a good selection of local specialities (such as katuso tataki for ¥980) and sakes from breweries around Kōchi-ken starting at ¥440 – look for the page labelled ‘Tosa no Ji-zake’ ().
Tonchan (823-6204; 1-3-8 Obiyamachi; 5-11pm, closed Sun) Smoke and steam, conversation and laughter fill the air in this timeless place, where the regulars crowd round a horseshoe-shaped bar, and the ladies in charge bustle about warming sake and sending food