Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [521]
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AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO DōGO ONSEN
According to legend, Dōgo Onsen () was discovered during the age of the gods when a white heron was found healing itself in the spring. Since then, Dōgo has featured prominently in a number of literary classics, and won itself a reputation for the curative powers of its waters. The mono-alkaline spring contains sulphur, and is believed to be particularly effective at treating rheumatism, neuralgia and hysteria.
The main building, Dōgo Onsen Honkan (; 089-921-5141; 5-6 Dōgo-yunomachi; 6am-11pm), was constructed in 1894, and designated as an important cultural site in 1994. The three-storey, castle-style building incorporates traditional design elements, and is crowned by a statue of a white heron to commemorate its legendary origins. Although countless famous people have passed through its doors, Dōgo Onsen Honkan is perhaps best known for its inclusion in the famous 1906 novel Botchan by Natsume Sōseki, the greatest literary figure of Japan’s modern age, who based his novel on his time as a schoolteacher in Matsuyama in the early 20th century.
Even if you’re well versed in onsen (hot springs) culture, Dōgo can be a bit confusing as there are two separate baths (and four pricing options) from which to choose. The larger and more popular of the two baths is kami-no-yu (; water of the gods), which is separated by gender and adorned with heron mosaics. A basic bath costs ¥400, while a bath followed by tea and senbei (rice crackers) in the 2nd-floor tatami room costs ¥800, and includes a rental yukata (light cotton kimono). A rental towel and soap will set you back a further ¥50. The smaller and more private of the two baths is the tama-no-yu (; water of the spirit), which is also separated by gender and adorned with simple tiles. A bath followed by tea and dango (sweet dumplings) in the 2nd-floor tatami room costs ¥1200, while the top price of ¥1500 allows you to enjoy your snack in a private tatami room on the 3rd floor.
Although there are English-language pamphlets on hand to clarify the correct sequence of steps, Dōgo Onsen can be a bit intimidating if you don’t speak Japanese. After paying your money outside, you should enter the building and leave your shoes in a locker. If you’ve paid ¥400, go to the kami-no-yu changing room (signposted in English), where you can use the free lockers for your clothing. If you’ve paid ¥800 or ¥1200, first go upstairs to receive your yukata, and then return to either the kami-no-yu or tama-no-yu (also signposted in English) changing room. After your bath, you should don your yukata and retire to the 2nd-floor tatami room to sip your tea and gaze down on the bath-hoppers clip-clopping by in geta (traditional wooden sandals). If you’ve paid top whack, head directly to the 3rd floor, where you will be escorted to your private tatami room. Here, you can change into your yukata before heading to the tama-no-yu changing room, and also return after your bath to sip tea in complete isolation.
Regardless of which option you choose, you are allowed to explore the building after taking your bath. On the 2nd floor, there is a small exhibition room displaying artefacts relating to the bathhouse, including traditional wooden admission tickets. If you’ve taken one of the pricier upstairs options, you can also take a guided tour (in Japanese) of the private imperial baths, last used by the royal family in 1950. On the 3rd floor, the corner tatami room (which was the favourite of Natsume Sōseki) has a small display (in Japanese) on the life of the writer.
Dōgo Onsen is 2km east of the city centre, and can be reached by the regular tram service, which terminates at the start of the spa’s shopping arcade. This arcade is lined with small restaurants and souvenir stores, and leads directly to the front of the Honkan.
Dōgo can get quite crowded, especially on weekends and holidays, although at dinner time it’s usually empty, because most Japanese tourists will be having dinner in their