Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [523]
Kotohira
0877 / pop 10,900
The small mountain village of Kotohira is home to Kompira-san, a Shintō shrine dedicated to the god of seafarers. The shrine is one of Shikoku’s most famous tourist attractions. If you mention to a Japanese person that you’ve visited Kotohira, you will almost certainly be asked if you made it to the top. There are 1368 steep stone steps leading up to the top. Sellers of walking sticks and drinks are on hand to help you out.
ORIENTATION
Kotohira is a small town, and all roads lead to the shrine. Starting a few streets southeast of the two stations, a busy street lined with the inevitable souvenir shops stretches to the bottom of the long stone staircase that leads up to the shrine.
INFORMATION
There are coin lockers at the station, and the ATMs at the post office accept international cards.
Tourist information centre (75-3500; 9.30am-8pm) Found along the main road between JR Kotohira station and Kotoden Kotohira station. Has local maps, and bikes available for hire (¥100/500 per hour/day).
SIGHTS
Kompira-san
Kompira-san or, more formally, Kotohira-gū, was originally a Buddhist and Shintō temple dedicated to the guardian of mariners. It became exclusively a Shintō shrine after the Meiji Restoration. The shrine’s hilltop position affords superb views over the countryside, and there are some interesting reminders of its maritime connections.
A lot of fuss is made about how strenuous the climb (1368 steps) to the top is, but if you’ve made it this far in Japan, you’ve probably completed a few long ascents to shrines already. If you really blanch at the thought of climbing all those steps, you can always dish out ¥6500 and be carried up and down in a palanquin.
The first notable landmark on the long climb is Ō-mon, a stone gateway that leads to Hōmotsu-kan (Treasure House; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5pm), where the collection of treasures is pretty underwhelming for such a major shrine. Nearby you will find five traditional-sweets vendors at tables shaded by large white parasols. A symbol of ancient times, the vendors (the Gonin Byakushō – Five Farmers), are descendants of the original families that were permitted to trade within the grounds of the shrine. Further uphill is Shoin (Reception Hall; admission ¥500; 8.30am-4.30pm), a designated National Treasure that dates from 1659 and has some interesting screen paintings and a small garden.
Continuing the ascent, you eventually reach large Asahino Yashiro (Shrine of the Rising Sun). Built in 1837, this large hall is dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, and is noted for its ornate wood-carving. From here, the short final ascent, which is the most beautiful leg of the walk, brings you to Gohonsha (Gohon Hall) and Ema-dō (Ema Pavilion). The latter is filled with maritime offerings ranging from pictures of ships and models to modern ship engines. There’s also a one-man sailboat hull made out of 22,000 recycled aluminium cans and powered by solar panels – its owner donated it to the shrine after he sailed in it from Ecuador to Tokyo in 1996. From this level, there are spectacular views that extend right down to the coast and over the Inland Sea.
Incurable climbers can continue for another 500 or so steps up to Oku-sha (Inner Shrine), which features stone carvings of tengu (long-nosed mountain demons) on the cliff.
Other Sights
Built in 1835, Kanamaru-za (73-3846; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm) is Japan’s oldest kabuki playhouse, though it had a lengthy stint as a cinema before falling out of use. It was lovingly restored in 2003. Inside, you can wander backstage and see the revolving-stage mechanism, basement trap doors and a tunnel out to the front of the theatre. The playhouse is 200m east of the main approach to Kompira-san.
Kinryō-no-Sato (73-4133; admission ¥310; 9am-5pm) sake museum, located along the main approach to the shrine, is in the old premises of a brewery that has