Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [527]
There are bus services to/from Tokyo (¥10,000, 9½ hours, one daily), Nagoya (¥6800, 5½ hours), Kyoto (¥4,800, three hours and 40 minutes) and most other major cities.
There are ferries with Jumbo Ferry (811-6688) between Takamatsu and Kōbe (¥1800, three hours and 40 minutes, five daily). Ferries depart from Takamatsu port, just east of the town centre, reached by a free shuttle bus that leaves from in front of the JR Takamatsu station 30 minutes before the ferry’s scheduled departure time. Ferries to the Inland Sea islands of Naoshima, Shōdo-shima and Megi-jima leave from the Sunport terminal, close to the JR station.
Getting Around
The easiest way to navigate the city is by using local trains. The main Kotoden junction is Kotoden Kawaramachi, although the line ends at Kotoden Chikkō, near JR Takamatsu station.
Takamatsu is flat, and excellent for biking. The city offers a great deal on its ‘blue bicycles’ (¥200 per day; photo ID is required), which can be picked up at Takamatsu-shi Rental Cycles (821-0400; 7am-10pm) in the underground bicycle park outside JR Takamatsu station. (There are several spots around town where you can pick up a bike, but this spot is the most convenient.)
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AROUND TAKAMATSU
There are a number of interesting day trips from Takamatsu. In addition to those listed here, Takamatsu is also an excellent stepping-off point for the olive groves of Shōdo-shima Click here and the wonderful art of Naoshima in the Inland Sea, both less than an hour by boat from the ferry port close to Takamatsu station.
Yashima
About 5km east of Takamatsu is the 292m-high tabletop plateau of Yashima, where you’ll find Yashima-ji (; 087-841-9418), number 84 of the 88 Temples. This was the site of a decisive battle between the Genji and Heike clans in the late 12th century, and the temple’s Treasure House (admission ¥500; 9am-5pm) exhibits artefacts relating to the battle. Just behind the Treasure House is the Pond of Blood, where victorious Genji warriors washed the blood from their swords.
At the bottom of Yashima, about 500m north of the station, is Shikoku-mura (; 087-843-3111; 9-1 Shimanaka; admission ¥800; 8.30am-6pm, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar), an excellent village museum that houses old buildings brought from all over Shikoku and neighbouring islands. The village’s fine kabuki stage came from Shōdo-shima Click here, which is famous for its traditional farmers’ kabuki performances. Other interesting structures include a border guardhouse from the Tokugawa era (a time when travel was tightly restricted), a vine bridge similar to those you can see in the Iya Valley, and several Meiji-era lighthouses. There is also an excellent restaurant serving Sanuki udon (what else?) in an old farmhouse building.
Yashima is six stops from Kawaramachi on the private Kotoden line (¥270). Shuttle buses run from the station to the top of the mountain (¥100) – departures are at half-past the hour from 9.30am to 4.30pm, and the last bus back down leaves at 5.20pm. The funicular railway up the mountain closed down in 2004.
Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum
It’s worth considering an excursion to the town of Murechō, east of Takamatsu, to witness the fascinating legacy of noted sculptor Isamu Noguchi (1904–88). Born in Los Angeles to a Japanese poet and an American writer, Noguchi set up a studio and residence here in 1970. Today the complex (087-870-1500; www.isamunoguchi.or.jp; 3-5-19 Murechō; tours ¥2100; 1hr tours 10am, 1pm & 3pm Tue, Thu & Sat, by appointment) is filled with hundreds of Noguchi’s works, and holds its own as an impressive art installation. Inspiring sculptures are on display in the beautifully restored Japanese buildings and in the surrounding landscape.
If you want to visit here, you have to get your act together early. Visitors should fax or email ahead for reservations, preferably two weeks or more in advance (see the website for reservations and access details).
Megi-jima
Just offshore