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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [533]

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sightseeing cruises around Hakata Bay. Shikanoshima also has a fishing shrine (; 603-6501) decorated with deer antlers and a popular beach about 5km east of the shrine.

Festivals & Events

Hakozaki-gū Tamatorisai (Tamaseseri) (() On 3 January, two groups of young men clad in loincloths raucously chase a wooden ball in the name of good fortune, at Hakozaki-gū shrine.

Hakata Dontaku Matsuri () On 3 and 4 May, Fukuoka’s Meiji-dōri vibrates to the percussive shock of shamoji (wooden serving spoons) being banged together like castanets with shamisen (three-stringed instrument) accompaniment. Dontaku, from the Dutch word zontag, meaning ‘holiday’, was added to the name during the Meiji period.

Hakata Gion Yamakasa Matsuri () The city’s main festival is held from 1 to 15 July, climaxing at 4.59am on the 15th, when seven groups of men converge at Kushida-jinja, just north of Canal City, then race on a 5km-long course carrying huge mikoshi (portable shrines). According to legend, the festival originated after a 13th-century Buddhist priest was carried aloft, sprinkling holy water over victims of a plague.

Kyūshū Bashō sumō tournament () Held over two weeks at the Fukuoka Kokusai Centre during mid-November. Limited same-day tickets (tōjitsu-ken; ¥3400 to ¥15,000) are available from 8am but spectators start lining up at dawn.

Sleeping

Fukuoka is popular for business and pleasure. There’s plenty of good-value accommodation. Stay near JR Hakata Station for convenience if railing around, but Tenjin is a better bet if you plan to spend a few days and like to shop and play.

BUDGET

International Hostel Khaosan Fukuoka (404-6035; www.khaosan-fukuoka.com; 11-34 Hiemachi, Hakata-ku; dm/s/tw from ¥2400/3500/5200; ) This 19-room hostel is a great place to meet fellow travellers. Rooms are basic but light and airy.

Hotel New Simple (411-4311; fax 411-4312; www.hotel-newsimple.jp; 1-23-11 Hakata-ekimae; dm/s/tw ¥3000/4200/7140) One of Fukuoka’s cheapest hotels, about 10 minutes’ walk from Hakata Station. Rooms are clean and there’s a family room to accommodate up to six.

Hakata JBB (263-8300; fax 263-8301; 6-5-1 Reisen-machi, Hakata-ku; s/d ¥4725/6000) This small private hotel is homey, friendly and some English is spoken. The decor is a little dated, but it’s in a nice area close to Kushida shrine and Nakasu.

Amenity Hotel in Hakata (282-0041; fax 282-0044; www.amenityhotel.com; 14-25 Kami-kawabata; r with continental breakfast from ¥4900; ) A standard business hotel, well located to Hakata Riverain and the subway. Free LAN cable internet access.

Hotel Etwas Tenjin (737-3233; fax 737-3266; 3-5-18 Tenjin; s/d ¥5800/7800 with light breakfast; ) Recently refurbished, this business hotel is an excellent choice for smart, quiet accommodation in the heart of Tenjin, with lively Oyafuko-dōri around the corner. All rooms have LCD TVs. Some have LAN cable internet access.

Ryokan Kashima Honkan (291-0746; fax 271-7995; 3-11 Reisen-machi; r per person without bathroom from ¥6000; ) In the Gion district near Canal City, this charmingly creaky, unpretentious ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) is pleasantly faded and focused around an enclosed Meiji-era garden. Oozing atmosphere, it’s a great place to sample traditional Japan. The friendly owners love LP readers, and communicate well in English.

Hotel Century Art (473-2111; fax 473-2112; 5-15 Chuo-gai, Hakata-eki; s/d/tw from ¥6500/9900/12,000; ; JR Hakata, Chikushi-gate) Behind JR Hakata Station (Chikushi-gate), this older property has decent-sized rooms and lots of marble. Some rooms have LAN cable internet access.

Hotel Éclair (283-2000; fax 283-6292; 1-1 Susaki-machi, Hakata-ku; s/tw from ¥6800/13,500; ) Opposite Hotel Okura (opposite), this modern private hotel has light-filled rooms and a nice imitation Irish pub downstairs. Free LAN cable internet and rental laptops available.

Nishitetsu Inn Hakata (413-5454; fax 413-5466; 1-17-6 Hakata-ekimae; s/tw from ¥6900/13,300; ) This shiny 500-room transit hotel next door to the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre has a sauna and mineral bath and rooms have

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