Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [576]
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SAITOBARU
0983
North of Miyazaki, at the Saitobaru Burial Mounds Park, several square kilometres of fields and forest are dotted with over 300 kofun (burial mounds). The mounds, dating from AD 300 to 600, range from insignificant bumps to hillocks large enough to appear as natural creations.
The small Saitobaru Archaeological Museum (; 41-0041; admission free; 10am-6pm, closed Mon) has displays of archaeological finds, including ancient swords, armour, jewellery, haniwa and much more.
The park area is always open. Buses run frequently to Saitobaru from Miyakō City bus terminal (¥1040, one hour). You’ll need your own transport if you want to explore the mound-dotted countryside, or you should plan to walk a lot.
Saitobaru is just outside the town of Saito, where the unique Usudaiko dance festival, with drummers wearing odd polelike headgear, takes place in early September. The equally interesting Shiromi Kagura performances are on 14 and 15 December, part of a harvest festival that lasts from 12 to 16 December.
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TAKACHIHO
0982 / pop 15,840
The pretty mountain town of Takachiho is midway between Aso-san and Nobeoka on the east coast. North of the Miyakō Bus Centre is the Takachiho Tourism Association (72-1213; 8.30am-5pm) offering information in English about events and lodgings in and around Takachiho.
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TAKACHIHO LEGENDS
In Takachiho, residents insist that Ninigi-no-mikoto, grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu, descended to earth atop the legendary mountain Takachiho-no-mine. They also lay claim to Ama-no-Iwato, the cave in which Amaterasu, angered by her brother’s misbehaviour, exiled herself, plunging the world into darkness. Eventually, the sun goddess was lured out by the bawdy antics of another goddess Ama no Uzume, and light was restored to earth.
The iwato kagura dances performed in Takachiho today are said to be derived from the dance that lured Amaterasu from hiding and are characterised by masks with unusually long noses…
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Sights
TAKACHIHO-KYŌ
Takachiho’s magnificent gorge with its water-fall, overhanging rocks and sheer walls was formed over 100,000 years ago by a double volcanic eruption. There’s a 1km-long nature trail above the gorge, or view it up close from a rowboat (73-1213; per 30min ¥1500; 8.30am-5pm). Depending on the season, it may be like rush hour on the water.
TAKACHIHO-JINJA
Takachiho-jinja, near the bus station, is set in a grove of cryptomeria pines. See below for performances.
AMANO IWATO-JINJA
The Iwato-gawa splits Amano Iwato-jinja (74-8239) into two parts, Nishi Hongū (the main building) on the west bank of the river and Higashi Hongū on the east, the cave in which many believe, according to Shintō myth, sun goddess Amaterasu hid, plunging the world into darkness, until she was eventually lured out by the saucy performance of another goddess, Ama no Uzume.
A short walk beside a picturesque stream takes you to the Amano Yasugawara cave, where thousands of other deities allegedly conspired to find ways of luring Amaterasu from hiding. Take the Iwato bus from the Miyakō bus terminal, then walk 15 minutes. Buses leave a little over an hour apart (¥300, 20 minutes).
Festivals & Events
Important local iwato kagura festivals (see the boxed text, left) are held here.
From November to February, dances (73-2413; tickets ¥500) are performed at Takachiho-jinja (above) for an hour each evening from 8pm.
In May, September and November (dates change every year) performances are held at the Amano Iwato-jinja (above) from 10am to 10pm.
There are also all-night performances in farmhouses from November to February. Visits are arranged by enquiring at the