Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [586]
Hiking among the high peaks and mossy forests is the main activity on Yakushima, but the island is also home to some excellent coastal onsen and a few sandy beaches.
Keep in mind that Yakushima is a place of extremes: the mountains wring every last drop of moisture from the passing clouds and the interior of the island is one of the wettest places in Japan. In the winter, the peaks may be covered in snow, while the coast is still relatively balmy. Whatever you do, come prepared and don’t set off on a hike without a good map and the proper gear. An International Driving Permit will also vastly increase your enjoyment here, as buses are few and far between.
ORIENTATION
Yakushima’s main port is Miyanoura (), on the island’s northeast coast. This is the most convenient place to be based, as most buses originate from here. From Miyanoura, a road runs around the perimeter of the island, passing through the secondary port of Anbō () on the east coast, and then through the hot-springs town of Onoaida () in the south. Heading north from Miyanoura, the road takes you to the town of Nagata (), which has a brilliant stretch of white-sand beach.
INFORMATION
Miyanoura’s ferry terminal has a useful tourist information centre (42-1019; 8.30am-5pm) in the white building on your right as you emerge from the Toppy and Rocket ferry offices. It can help you find lodgings and can answer all your questions about the island. In Anbō there’s a smaller tourist office (46-2333; 9am-5.30pm) on the main road just north of the river.
If you plan to get around the island by bus, we recommend buying a bus pass (Click here).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Onsen
There are several onsen around the island, the best of which are located near the village of Onoaida, on the southern coast of the island, accessible by southbound buses from Miyanoura or Anbō.
Onsen lovers will be in heaven at the Hirauchi Kaichū Onsen (admission ¥100; 24hr). The outdoor baths are in the rocks by the sea and can only be entered at or close to low tide (ask at the TIC or at your lodgings for times). You can walk to the baths from the Kaichū Onsen bus stop, but the next stop, Nishikaikon, is actually closer. From Nishikaikon, walk downhill towards the sea for about 200m and take a right at the bottom of the hill. Note that this is a konyoku onsen (mixed bath), so if you’re shy, you’ll just have to wait until other bathers clear off, as swimsuits are not allowed.
About 600m west is Yudomari Onsen (admission ¥100; 24hr), another great seaside onsen that can be entered at any tide. The small bath here has a divider that affords a bit more privacy. Get off at the Yudomari bus stop and take the road opposite the post office in the direction of the sea. Once you enter the village, the way is marked. It’s a 300m walk and you pass a great banyan tree en route.
In the village of Onoaida is Onoaida Onsen (admission ¥200; 7am-9.30pm May-Oct, to 9pm Nov-Apr, from noon Mon), a rustic indoor bathhouse that is divided by gender. This is a great local bath and you’re likely to be bathing with the village elders here. It’s at the top (mountain side) of the village, a few minutes’ walk uphill (about 350m) from the Onoaida Onsen bus stop.
Hiking
Hiking is the best way to experience Yakushima’s beauty. If you’re planning anything more than a short stroll around Yaku-sugi Land (Click here), pick up a copy of the Japanese-language Yama-to-Kougen-no-Chizu- Yakushima (; ¥840), available at major bookshops in Japan. You’ll also need proper hiking gear, including rain gear and warm clothing, especially in winter, as well as a sleeping bag and sufficient food if you intend to overnight in the yama-goya (mountain huts).
Before heading up into the hills, be sure to alert someone at your accommodation of your intended route and fill in a tōzan todokede (route plan) at the trailhead.
The most popular hiking destination on the island is the Jōmon Sugi, a monster of a yaku-sugi that is estimated to be at least