Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [594]
SLEEPING
Aze Campground (; camping free; ) This fine little camping ground at Aze Princess Beach has showers, nice grassy sites and a trail down to its own private beach.
Cōpo Shichifukujin (; 82-2618; per person ¥3000) These slightly funky rooms in a converted apartment building have showers and kitchen facilities and are good for a cheap night in central Kametsu.
Kanami-sō (; 84-9027; per person with 2 meals from ¥7350; ) In the village of Kanami at the very northeast tip of the island, this friendly divers’ lodge has a great location overlooking a good snorkelling beach. Some of the upstairs rooms have sweeping views and attached bathrooms. The place specialises in ise ebi ryōri (Japanese lobster cuisine).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Tokunoshima has flights to/from Kagoshima (JAL; ¥24,600, one hour, two daily) and Amami-Ōshima (JAC; ¥12,200, 35 minutes, two daily).
Tukunoshima is served by Maruei/A Line ferries, which run between Kagoshima (some originating in Honshu) and Naha, and Amami Kaiun ferries, which run between Kagoshima and Okinoerabu-shima. See opposite for details.
There are bus stations at both ports, and a decent bus system to all parts of the island, but you’ll definitely appreciate the convenience of a car, scooter or touring bicycle. Toyota Renta Car (; 85-5089) is right outside Kametoku-shinkō pier. There are also car-rental places near the airport.
Okinoerabu-jima
0997 / pop 15,000
About 33km southwest of Tokunoshima, Okinoerabu is a sugarcane-covered island with some excellent beaches, interesting coastal formations and a brilliant limestone cave. Perhaps the most appealing aspect of the island is the slightly retro down-at-the-heels feeling of Wadomari (), the island’s main town. You might feel like you’ve stepped out of a time machine as you walk the backstreets of the place.
The airport is at the eastern tip of the island, with Wadomari-kō (), the main port and town, 6km away on the east coast. There is a small tourist information booth (92-2901; 8.30am-5pm) at Wadomari port on the 2nd floor of the terminal building, which has maps of the island (the office is next to the ferry ticket window).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
There are excellent beaches all around the island, but one is worth a special mention: Okidomari-kaigan (), at the northwest end of the island, about 3km east of Taminamisaki (see below). Backed by amphitheatre-like green cliffs, the white sand and offshore coral formations of this beach make it a must-see. You’ll also find several ‘secret’ little beaches off of the coastal road between Fūcha (see below) and the airport.
On the southwest slopes of Ōyama (the mountain at the west end of the island), you will find the brilliant Shōryūdō (; 93-4536; admission ¥1000; 8.30am-5pm), a limestone cave with 600m of walkways and illumination. When you come to the end, it’s like emerging into a lost jungle world (lost being the operative word – follow the main asphalt road uphill for 400m to get back to the starting point). It’s a few kilometres inland from the southwest coastal road.
The island’s coast has many impressive geographical landforms. Taminamisaki (), at the northwest tip of the island, has ancient coral that has been upthrust to form a 40m cliff. At the island’s northeast tip, Fūcha () is a blowhole in the limestone rock, which shoots water 10m into the air on windy days.
SLEEPING & EATING
Okidomari Campground (; camping free; ) This excellent camping ground at Okidomari Kaigan beach has showers and large grassy areas with trees for shade.
Business Hotel Wadamari-kō (; 92-1189; s with breakfast ¥3500; ) A few minutes’ walk from the port, this simple, cheap hotel looks more like a private house. It is on the left soon after exiting the pier area.
Kankō Hotel Azuma (; 92-1283; r per person with 2 meals from ¥7300; ) In Wadomari, this friendly hotel looks a little worn, but the rooms are spacious and comfortable, and