Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [596]
The Okinawan working folk’s food is okinawa-soba (), which is actually udon (thick white noodles) served in a pork broth. The most common variants are sōki-soba (), which contains pork spare ribs; and shima-tōgarashi (; pickled hot peppers in sesame oil) and yaeyama-soba (), which contains thin white noodles akin to sōmen.
Others dishes to look out for include hirayāchi (), which is a thin pancake of egg, vegetables and meat that is similar to the mainland okonomiyaki (). Yagi-jiru (; goat soup) is an invigorating (albeit stinky) reminder of a past era when goats were traditionally slaughtered to celebrate the construction of a new house. On the island of Miyako-jima, look for umi-budō (), literally ‘sea grapes’, an oddly textured seaweed that is often described as ‘green caviar’. Finally, there’s nothing quite like a scoop (or two) of Blue Seal () ice cream, an American favourite that was introduced to the island following WWII.
Okinawans are a gregarious and cheerful bunch who love their food almost as much as their drink. While travelling through the Southwest Islands, be sure to sample the local firewater, namely awamori (), which is distilled from rice and has an alcohol content of 30% to 60%. Although it’s usually served mizu-wari (; diluted with water), this is seriously lethal stuff, especially the habushu (), which comes with a small habu snake (see the boxed text) coiled in the bottom of the bottle. If you’re hitting the awamori hard, take our advice and cancel your plans for the next day (or two).
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The harbour is next to the airport on the western tip of the island, while the main town of Chabana () is 1km to the east. Beside the city office in Chabana is the useful tourist information office (;97-5151; 8.30am-5.30pm), which provides maps, an English pamphlet and can make accommodation bookings.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
On the eastern side of the island, Yoron’s best beach is the popular Oganeku-kaigan (). About 500m offshore from Oganeku-kaigan is Yurigahama (), a stunning stretch of white sand that disappears completely at high tide. Boats (¥1000 return) putter back and forth, ferrying visitors out to it. Other good beaches include Maehama-kaigan (), on the southeast coast, and Terasaki-kaigan (), on the northeast coast.
At the island’s southeastern tip, the excellent Yoron Minzoku-mura (; 97-2934; admission ¥400; 9am-6pm) is a collection of traditional thatch-roof island dwellings and storehouses that contain exhibits on the island’s culture and history. If at all possible, bring along a Japanese speaker, as the owner is an incredible source of information on the island.
The Southern Cross Center (; 97-3396; admission ¥300; 9am-6pm), a short walk from the Ishini () bus stop 3km south of Chabana, is a five-storey concrete lookout that serves as a museum of Yoron and Amami history and culture. Offering good views south to Okinawa, the museum’s name celebrates the fact that Yoron-tō is the northernmost island in Japan from which the Southern Cross can be seen.
SLEEPING & EATING
The following places are all in Chabana.
Minshuku Nankai-sō (; 97-2145; fax 43-0888; r per person with/without meals ¥5500/3000; ) This simple minshuku offers simple accommodation, shared bathrooms and a laid-back communal atmosphere. To get there from the tourist office, turn your back to the office, walk straight into the opposite street and look for it on your right. Staff will pick you up if you phone ahead.
Shiomi-sō (; 97-2167; per person with meals from ¥5500; ) This friendly and casual minshuku is popular with young people. Starting from Chabana harbour, take the main road north (uphill) out of town and look for it on the left after the turn; it looks like a private house. Staff will pick you up if you phone ahead.
Hotel Seikai-sō (; 97-2046; per person with meals from ¥6300; ) This simple hotel on the main street in Chabana is well run, clean and comfortable. It’s a good choice if you want a Western-style room and privacy.
Izakaya Kayoi-bune (; 97-3189; meals from ¥1200; dinner) On the main street