Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [603]
Directly south of Naha in Kaigungo-kōen is the Underground Naval Headquarters (850-4055; admission ¥420; 8.30am-5pm), where 4000 men committed suicide or were killed as the battle for Okinawa drew to its bloody conclusion. Only 250m of the tunnels are open, but you can wander through the maze of corridors, see the commander’s final words on the wall of his room, and inspect the holes and scars in other walls from the grenade blasts that killed many of the men. To reach the sight, take bus 33 or 46 from Naha bus terminal to the Tomigusuku-kōen-mae stop (¥230, 20 minutes, hourly). From there it’s a 10-minute walk – follow the English signs (the entrance is near the top of the hill).
Central Okinawa-hontō
The densely populated strip to the north of Naha/Shuri is home to the American military bases and the thriving metropolis of Okinawa City (; Okinawa-shi). This area is the most Americanised part of the island, and evidence of the foreign presence is visible in the form of pizzerias, drive-throughs and the odd military vehicle (not to mention all the military air traffic). It’s also home to an amazing number of artificial tourist attractions aimed at domestic tourists. However, you will find some interesting cultural and historical sites scattered about, all of which are best visited as a day trip from Naha. If you plan to drive, we recommend using the expressway as local roads are slow and confusing.
On the east coast of the island and just south of Okinawa City are the castle ruins of Nakagusuku-jō (895-5719; admission ¥300; 8.30am-5pm). Commanding an enviable position overlooking the coast, Nakagusuku-jō predated stone construction of this type on the mainland by at least 80 years. Although the castle was destroyed in 1458, the remaining foundation hints at its former grandeur.
A 10-minute walk uphill is Nakamura-ke (935-3500; admission ¥300; 9am-5.30pm), which is probably the best-preserved traditional Okinawan house on the island. Although the Nakamura family’s origins in the area can be traced back to the 15th century, the foundation dates from around 1720. Notice the substantial stone pigsties, the elevated storage area to deter rats and the trees grown as typhoon windbreaks. Both sights are a 10-minute taxi ride from Futenma, which can be accessed via bus 25 from Naha (¥500, one hour, hourly). If you’re driving, these sites are closest to the Kita-Nakagusuku expressway exit.
Motobu-hantō
Jutting out to the northwest of Nago, the hilly peninsula of Motobu-hantō is home to some scenic vistas and decent beaches, as well as an incredibly popular aquarium. The peninsula also serves as the jumping-off point for several nearby islets. Motobu-hantō is served by frequent loop lines from Nago – buses 66 and 65 respectively run anticlockwise and clockwise around the peninsula.
A couple of kilometres north of Motobu town is the Ocean Expo Park, the centrepiece of which is the wonderful Okinawa Chiraumi Aquarium (043-3748; admission ¥1800; 8.30am-6.30pm, later in summer, closed 1st Wed & Thu in Dec). The aquarium is built around the world’s largest aquarium tank, which houses a fantastic variety of fish including two whale sharks. Unfortunately, this place is on the checklist of every single tourist to the island, and it can be packed. From Nago, bus 70 runs directly to the park (¥800, 45 minutes). Both peninsula loop lines (buses 65 and 66) also stop outside.
Set back from the peninsula’s north coast and winding over a hilltop are the crumbling remains of Nakijin-jō (56-4400; admission ¥150; 8.30am-5.30pm), a 14th-century castle. It’s not a must-see attraction, but might be of interest to history buffs. Be sure to buy your ticket