Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [605]
Due to its small size, the best way to get around the island is on foot.
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IN DEEP WATER
Although it’s not nearly as popular with divers as Southeast Asia, the Southwest Islands have some excellent diving. The waters surrounding the southern islands are home to an impressive variety of fish and coral species. There is also a healthy smattering of underwater wrecks, cavern systems and even the odd archaeological ruin.
Costs for diving in the Southwest Islands are higher than you might pay in Southeast Asia, but standards of equipment and guiding are fairly high. In order to dive around Okinawa and the Southwest Islands, you will need to be in possession of a valid diving certification. If you’re renting equipment, you should know your weight in kilograms, your height in metres and your shoe size in centimetres.
One of the biggest deterrents for foreign divers is the fact that few operators on the islands speak English. Fortunately, there are a few operators in the islands who speak English and who welcome foreign divers. They include the following:
Ishigaki: Sea Friends (0980-82-0863; 346 Ishigaki, Ishigaki-shi Aza; 1/2 dives ¥11,550/15,750, equipment rental ¥3150; 8am-8pm)
Ishigaki: Umicoza (0980-88-2434; 827-15 Kabira, Ishigaki-shi; 1/2 dives ¥9450/12,600, equipment rental ¥5250; 8am-6pm)
Okinawa Hontō: Reef Encounters (098-968-4442; www.reefencounters.org)
Yonaguni: SaWest (0980-87-2311; 59-6 Yonaguni, Yonaguni-chō Aza, Yaeyama-gun; 1/2 dives ¥8000/12,000, equipment rental ¥5000; 8am-6pm)
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ZAMAMI-JIMA
098 / pop 610
A stone’s throw from Aka-jima, Zamami-jima is slightly more developed, but also has some great beaches and a few rocky vistas. It’s got some brilliant offshore islands and great diving and snorkelling in the surrounding waters. There is a tourist information office (987-2277; 9am-5pm) at the port.
Furuzamami Beach (), approximately 1km southeast from the port (over the hill), is a stunning 700m stretch of white sand that is fronted by clear, shallow water and a bit of coral. The beach is well developed for day-trippers, and has toilets, showers and food stalls. You can also rent snorkelling gear here (¥1000).
If you fancy a little solitude, you’ll find picturesque empty beaches in several of the coves on the other sides of the island. The best beaches, however, are on Gahi-jima () and Agenashiku-jima (), which are located about a kilometre south of the port. Ringed by delightful white-sand beaches, they are perfect for a half-day Robinson Crusoe experience. One boat operator who can take you to these islands and arrange snorkelling trips is Zamami Tour Operation (987-3586). The TIC can also help arrange boat tours (pick-up/drop-off ¥1500 per person round trip).
Whale-watching is possible between the months of December and April. For more information, either enquire at the tourist information office or call the Zamami-mura Whale-Watching Association (; 896-4141; tours ¥6000; 1-2 2hr tours daily).
Zamami-jima makes a great day trip from Naha, but an overnight stay will be more relaxing. A good spot to call home for the night is Joy Joy (; 0120-10-2445; http://keramajoyjoy.com/index.html; r per person with breakfast from ¥5250) in the northwest corner of the village. Accommodation is in a variety of rooms that surround a small garden. This pension also runs a dive shop.
Minshuku Summer House Yū Yū (; 098-987-3055; www.yuyu-okinawa.jp/index.html, in Japanese; r per person with/without meals from ¥6000/3500) is a friendly minshuku that is just up the street from Joy Joy in the main village. Both places are an easy walk from the pier.
Zamami Sonei (868-4567) has two or three fast ferries a day (¥2750, 50 minutes) and one regular ferry (¥1860, two hours) to/from Naha’s Tomari-kō. The ferries usually stop at Aka-jima en route from Naha to Zamami. A motorboat also makes four trips a day between Aka-jima and Zamami-jima (¥300, 15 minutes).
There are no buses