Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [621]
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JAPANESE ACCOMMODATION MADE EASY
More than one foreign traveller has turned up unannounced in a ryokan or minshuku (Japanese-style guest house) and been given a distinctly cold reception, then concluded that they have been the victim of discrimination. More than likely, they simply broke one of the main rules of Japanese accommodation: don’t surprise them. Unlike some countries, where it’s perfectly normal to rock up at a place with no reservation, in Japan, people usually make reservations, often months in advance. With this in mind, here are a few tips to help you find a bed each night in Japan. Note that these also go for hotels, although they are generally a little more flexible than traditional accommodation.
Make reservations whenever possible Even if it’s a quick call a few hours before arriving, if you give the place a little warning, you’ll vastly increase your chances of getting a room.
Fax The Japanese are much more comfortable with written than spoken English. If you fax a room request with all your details, you will find a warm welcome. You can always follow it up with a call, once you’re all on the same page.
The baton pass Get your present accommodation to call ahead and reserve your next night’s accommodation. This will put everyone at ease – if you’re acceptable at one place, you’ll be just fine at another. Remember: this is a country where introductions are everything.
Tourist information offices In even the smallest hamlet or island in Japan, you’ll find tourist information offices, usually right outside train stations or ferry terminals. These offices exist just to help travellers find accommodation (OK, they also give brilliant directions). They will recommend a place and call to see if a room is available, and then they will tell you exactly how to get there. This is another form of introduction.
Lastly, there will be times when you just have to slide that door open and hope for the best. Even the Japanese have to resort to this desperate expedient from time to time. The secret here is to try to minimise the shock. Smile like you’re there to sell them insurance, muster your best konbanwa (good evening) and try to convince them that you actually prefer futons to beds, green tea to coffee, chopsticks to forks and baths to showers.
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BUSINESS HOTELS
These are economical and practical places geared to the single traveller, usually local businessmen who want to stay somewhere close to the station. Rooms are clean, Western style, just big enough for you to turn around in and include a ‘unit bath’ (ie a bath/shower and toilet). Vending machines replace room service.
Cheap single rooms can sometimes be found for as low as ¥4500, though the average rate is around ¥8000. Most business hotels also have twin and double rooms, and usually do not have a service charge.
CAPSULE HOTELS
One of Japan’s most famous forms of accommodation is the capseru hoteru. As the name implies, the ‘rooms’ in a capsule hotel consist of banks of neat white capsules stacked in rows two or three high. The capsules themselves are around 2m by 1m by 1m – about the size of a spacious coffin. Inside is a bed, a TV, a reading light, a radio and an alarm clock. Personal belongings are kept in a locker room. Most capsule hotels have the added attraction of a sauna and a large communal bath. The average price is ¥3800 per night.
Capsule hotels are common in major cities and often cater to workers who have partied too hard to make it home or have missed the last train. The majority of capsule hotels only accept male guests, but some also accept women (see Capsule Hotel Riverside, Click here).
LOVE HOTELS
As their name indicates, love hotels are used by Japanese couples for discreet trysts. You can use them for this purpose as well, but they’re