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For those without credit cards, it would be a good idea to bring some travellers cheques as a back-up. As in most other countries, the US dollar is still the currency of choice in terms of exchanging cash and cashing travellers cheques.

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ATMs

Automated teller machines are almost as common as vending machines in Japan. Unfortunately, most of these do not accept foreign-issued cards. Even if they display Visa and MasterCard logos, most accept only Japan-issued versions of these cards.

Fortunately, Japanese postal ATMs accept cards that belong to the following international networks: Visa, Plus, MasterCard, Maestro, Cirrus American Express and Diners Club cards. Check the sticker(s) on the back of your card to see which network(s) your card belongs to. You’ll find postal ATMs in almost all post offices, and you’ll find post offices in even the smallest Japanese village.

Note that postal ATMs work with bank or cash cards – you cannot use credit cards, even with a pin number, in postal ATMs. That is to say, you cannot use postal ATMs to perform a cash advance.

Most postal ATMs are open 9am to 5pm on weekdays, 9am to noon on Saturday, and are closed on Sunday and holidays. Some postal ATMs in very large central post offices are open longer hours.

Postal ATMs are relatively easy to use. Here’s the drill: press ‘English Guide’, select ‘Withdrawal’, then insert your card, press ‘Visitor Withdrawal’, input your pin number, then hit the button marked ‘Kakunin’ ( in Japanese), then enter the amount, hit ‘Yen’ and ‘Confirm’ and you should hear the delightful sound of bills being dispensed.

In addition to postal ATMs, you will find a few international ATMs in big cities like Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto, as well as major airports like Narita and Kansai International Airport. International cards also work in Citibank Japan ATMs. Visit www.citibank.co.jp/en/branch/index.html for a useful branch index.

Finally, 7-11 convenience stores across Japan have recently linked their ATMs to international cash networks, and these often seem to accept cards that for one reason or other will not work with postal ATMs. They are also open 24 hours. So, if you can’t find an open post office or your card won’t work with postal ATMs, don’t give up: ask around for a 7-11 (pronounced like ‘sebun erebun’ in Japanese).

Credit Cards

Except for making cash withdrawals at banks and ATMs, it is best not to rely on credit cards in Japan (see also the boxed text, left). While department stores, top-end hotels and some restaurants do accept cards, most businesses in Japan do not. Cash and carry is still very much the rule. If you do decide to bring a credit card, you’ll find Visa the most useful, followed by MasterCard, Amex and Diners Club.

The main credit-card offices are in Tokyo.

Amex (0120-02-0120; 4-30-16 Ogikubo, Suginami-ku; 24hr)

MasterCard (Map; 03-5728-5200; 16th fl, Cerulean Tower, 26-1 Sakuragaoka-chō, Shibuya-ku)

Visa (Map; 03-5275-7604; 7th fl, Hitotsubashi Bldg, 2-6-3 Hitotsubashi, Chiyoda-ku)

Exchanging Money

Banks, post offices and discount ticket shops will change all major currencies and travellers cheques. As with most other countries, you’ll find that US dollars are the easiest to change, although you should have no problems with other major currencies. Note, however, that the currencies of neighbouring Taiwan (New Taiwan dollar) and Korea (won) are not easy to change, so you should change these into yen or US dollars before arriving in Japan.

You can change cash or travellers cheques at most banks, major post offices, discount ticket shops, some travel agents, some large hotels and most big department stores. Note that discount ticket shops (known as kakuyasu kippu uriba in Japanese) often have the best rates. These can be found around major train stations.

INTERNATIONAL TRANSFERS

In order to make an international transfer you’ll have to find a Japanese bank associated with the bank transferring the money. Start by asking at the central branch of any major Japanese bank. If they don’t have a relationship