Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [77]
IMPERIAL PALACE EAST GARDEN
The Imperial Palace East Garden (Kōkyo Higashi-gyoen; Map; 3213-2050; admission free; 9am-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Feb; Chiyoda, Marunouchi, Tōzai lines to Ōtemachi, exit C10) is the only quarter of the palace proper that is open to the public. The main entrance is through Ōte-mon, a 10-minute walk north of Nijū-bashi. This was once the principal gate of Edo-jō; the garden lies at what was once the heart of the old castle. You’ll be given a numbered token to turn in when you depart. The store inside the garden sells a good map for ¥150.
KITANOMARU-KŌEN
Kitanomaru-kōen (Map) makes a pleasant picnicking locale and is good for a leisurely stroll. You can get there from Kudanshita or Takebashi subway stations.
Kitanomaru-kōen contains the Nihon Budōkan (Map; 3216-5100; 2-3 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; vary; Tōzai line to Takebashi, exit 1a), where you may witness a variety of martial arts. South of the Budōkan is the Science Museum (Kagaku Gijutsukan; Map; 3212-2440; www.jsf.or.jp; 2-1 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child ¥600/250; 9am-4.50pm; Tōzai line to Takebashi, exit 1a), a decent rainy-day stop for those with children in tow, especially since most exhibits are interactive. An English booklet is included with entry.
Continuing south from the Science Museum brings you to the National Museum of Modern Art (Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan; Map; 5777-8600; www.momat.go.jp/english; 3-1 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult ¥420, student ¥70-130; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Fri; Tōzai line to Takebashi, exit 1a). The permanent exhibition here features Japanese art from the Meiji period (1868–1912) onwards, but check the website for special exhibitions. Hold onto your ticket stub, which gives you free admission to the nearby Crafts Gallery (Bijutsukan Kōgeikan; Map; 5777-8600; 1-1 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult ¥200, student ¥40-70; 2-5pm Tue-Fri; Tōzai line to Takebashi, exit 1a), housing a good display of crafts such as ceramics, lacquerware and dolls.
YASUKUNI-JINJA
If you take the Tayasu-mon exit (just past the Nihon Budōkan) of Kitanomaru-kōen, across the road and to your left is the impressive Yasukuni-jinja (Map; 3261-8326; www.yasukuni.or.jp; 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda-ku; admission free; 9am-5pm Nov-Feb, 9am-6pm Mar, Apr, Sep & Oct, 9am-7pm May-Aug; Hanzōmon, Tōzai, Toei Shinjuku line to Kudanshita, exit 1), the Shrine for Establishing Peace in the Empire. Dedicated to the 2.4 million Japanese war-dead since 1853, it is the most controversial shrine in Japan. The Japanese constitutional separation of religion and politics and the renunciation of militarism didn’t stop a group of class-A war criminals being enshrined here in 1979; it also doesn’t stop annual visits by politicians on the anniversary of Japan’s defeat in WWII (15 August). The loudest protests come from Japan’s Asian neighbours, who suffered the greatest from Japanese aggression.
YASUKUNI-JINJA YŪSHŪKAN
Next to Yasukuni-jinja is the Yūshūkan (Map; 3261-0996; www.yasukuni.or.jp; adult ¥800, student ¥100-500; 9am-5pm; Hanzōmon, Tōzai, Toei Shinjuku line to Kudanshita, exit 1), a war memorial museum that features items commemorating Japanese war-dead. There are limited English explanations, but an English pamphlet is available. Exhibits include the long torpedo in the large exhibition hall that is a kaiten (human torpedo), a submarine version of the kamikaze (WWII suicide pilots), and the excerpts from books (some in English) arguing that America forced Japan into bombing Pearl Harbor.
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TOKYO FOR FREE
Unlike Tokyo’s gardens, most city parks are free (Shinjuku-gyoen being the exception), and provide a peaceful backdrop for a picnic – try Kitanomaru-kōen (left), Yoyogi-kōen or Hibiya-kōen (Map).
Temples and shrines are free unless you’d like to enter