Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [79]
Exhibiting the outstanding work of up-and-coming photographers and long-time professionals, Leica Ginza Salon (Map; 6215-7070; www.leica-camera.us/culture/galeries/gallery_tokyo; 1st & 2nd fl, Tokaido Bldg, 6-4-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; admission free; 11am-7pm Tue-Sun; Ginza, Hibiya & Marunouchi line to Ginza, exit C2) remains one of the best photography galleries in the area.
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TSUKIJI MANNERS Chris Rowthorn
As this book was being researched, the tuna auction at Tsukiji was temporarily closed to tourists, due to inappropriate behaviour by a small minority of visitors (both foreign and Japanese), some of whom touched the (very expensive!) fish or got in the way of the buyers and auctioneers in order to pose for photographs. (Not to mention the general disturbance created by large crowds of tourists milling about the place during working hours.)
As this book went to press, the tuna auction had been reopened, but visitors were confined to a small viewing area. It is unclear what the final policy on visitors to the auction will be, so it’s a good idea to ask at your place of accommodation about the current state of affairs before waking up at 4am to see the auction (and do keep in mind that the rest of the market is absolutely great and can be visited freely and you can do so without waking up at an unholy hour).
Whether you visit the tuna auction or just the rest of the market, it’s a good idea to keep in mind the following:
Tsukiji is a working market and not a show for tourists. Please keep out of the way of buyers and sellers as they go about their business.
Do not touch any of the products for sale.
Keep a sharp eye out for the motorised carts that prowl the market – especially if you’re with small children – getting hit by one of these things would really put a crimp in your vacation.
Wear shoes you won’t mind getting a bit mucky.
Consider actually buying something – after all, this is a market and not a museum.
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Kabuki-za
Even distinguished historic structures as Kabuki-za (Map; 3541-3131; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater/index.html; 4-12-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; admission ¥2500-17,000; 11am-9pm; Hibiya, Toei Asakusa lines to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3) are shockingly vulnerable to the Tokyo wrecking ball. If you’ll be visiting before April 2010, walk by to view the beautifully dramatic exterior of this kabuki theatre, or consider taking in a performance Click here before the curtain falls. Kabuki-za will reopen after demolition and reconstruction in 2013.
ADVERTISING MUSEUM TOKYO
A clean, well-lit setting for ad displays is only fitting for the Advertising Museum Tokyo (ADMT; Map; 6218-2500; B1 & B2 fl, Caretta Shiodome Bldg, 1-8-2 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; admission free; 11am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4.30pm Sat; Toei Ōedo line to Shiodome, JR Shimbashi exit). From cutting-edge pop designs to Edo-period woodcuts presaging advertising to come, the exhibitions are as fascinating as they are eye-catching. Find detailed directions on the website.
HAMA-RIKYŪ-TEIEN
Arguably the loveliest garden in central Tokyo, Hama-Rikyū-Teien (Detached Palace Garden; Map; 3541-0200; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm; Toei Ōedo line to Tsukiji-Shijō, exit A2) is incongruously surrounded by gleaming high-rises at the edge of Tokyo Bay. Walk the garden paths along tide-fed ponds for a little peace.
TSUKIJI FISH MARKET
Tsukiji Fish Market (Map; 3541-2640; www.tsukiji-market.or.jp; 5-2 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; closed 2nd & 4th Wed most months, Sun & public holidays; Toei Ōedo line to Tsukiji-Shijō, exits A1 & A2) is the world’s biggest seafood market. The day begins very early, with the arrival of the catch and its early-morning wholesale auctioning (see the boxed text, above).
To get to the climate-controlled auction hall, head into the main entrance of the market hall and go all the way to the back. You