Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [82]
Near Kaminarimon, you’ll probably be wooed by jinrikisha (pedicab drivers) in traditional dress; they can cart you around on tours (30/60 minutes for ¥5000/9000 per person), providing commentary in English or Japanese.
Straight ahead is Nakamise-dōri, the temple precinct’s shopping street, where everything from tourist trinkets to genuine Edo-style crafts is sold. Need a formal wig to wear with your kimono? Here’s where to shop.
Nakamise-dōri leads to the main temple compound. Whether the ancient image of Kannon actually exists is a secret, as it’s not on public display. This doesn’t stop a steady stream of worshippers from travelling to the top of the stairs to bow and clap. In front of the temple is a large incense cauldron: the smoke is said to bestow health and you’ll see visitors rubbing it into their bodies through their clothes.
DEMBŌ-IN
To the left of the temple precinct is Dembō-in (Map). Although the garden of Dembō-in is not open to the public, it is possible to obtain a pass by calling a few days ahead to the main office (3842-0181; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission free; open by appointment, closed for ceremonies; Ginza or Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 1 & A5) to the left of the entrance of the Five-Storeyed Pagoda nearby. The garden is one of Tokyo’s best, containing a picturesque pond and a replica of a famous Kyoto tea house.
EDO SHITAMACHI TRADITIONAL CRAFTS MUSEUM
Because Shitamachi is still home to countless traditional workshops – often of the mom-and-pop variety who have been in business for generations – Asakusa is the perfect location for this museum (Map; 3842-1990; 2-22-13 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission free; 10am-8pm; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3 or Tsukuba Express to Asakusa, exit A1). Displayed inside are beautifully made handicrafts in wood, straw, ceramic and lacquer, and if you visit on a weekend, local craftspeople demonstrate their expertise.
SUMIDA-GAWA CRUISE
A Sumida-gawa cruise on the Suijō Bus (Waterbus; Map; 0120-977-311; www.suijobus.co.jp; fare to Hama-Rikyū-Teien/Hinode Pier ¥720/760; 9.30am-6pm; Ginza or Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 4 & A5) may not be the most scenic you’ve ever experienced, but it’s a great way to get to or from Asakusa. Cruises depart about every half-hour from the pier next to the bridge, Azuma-bashi, and go to Hama-Rikyū-Teien and Hinode Pier (Map). A good way to do the cruise is to buy a ticket to Hama-Rikyū-Teien (where you’ll have to pay an additional ¥300 entry fee). After exploring the garden, you can walk into Ginza in about 10 to 15 minutes.
Ikebukuro
Though Ikebukuro once boasted the world’s largest department store, tallest building and longest escalator, these former glories have since been outshined elsewhere. But Ikebukuro’s Sunshine City is still perfect for rainy weather, since you could spend 40 days roaming the humongous mall, visiting the aquarium and planetarium and sampling enough ice cream and gyōza (Chinese dumplings) to last you a biblical deluge. The neighbourhood shouldn’t rate high on a busy schedule unless you’re looking for manga and girl-geek culture, in which case you’ll want to walk down Otome Rd.
SUNSHINE CITY
Billed as a ‘city in a building’, Sunshine City (Map; 3989-3331, 3989-1111; 3-1-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; 10am-10pm; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, east exit) is 60 floors of office space and shopping malls, with a few cultural and entertainment options thrown in, all in east Ikebukuro. If you’ve got ¥620 to burn, you can take a 35-second lift ride to the observatory (10am-9.30pm) on the 60th floor and gaze out on the building blocks below.
On the 7th floor of the Bunka Kaikan Building of Sunshine City is the Ancient Orient Museum (3989-3491; 3-1-4 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; adult ¥500, student ¥150-400; 10am-5pm), displaying antiquities and art from across Asia.
Also of interest might be the Sunshine Planetarium (3989-3475; 10th fl, World Import Mart Bldg, 3-1-3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; adult/child ¥900/500; 11am-6pm Mon-Thu, 8-10pm Fri-Sun), though shows are in Japanese,