Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [87]
TOKYO MIDTOWN
Roppongi’s shiniest new development is Tokyo Midtown (Map; www.tokyo-midtown.com; 9-7 Akasaka, Minato-ku; ; Hibiya & Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exit 8), classing up the neighbourhood with upscale design-oriented shops, a Ritz-Carlton (see Twenty-five Stars, Click here), wine bar, excellent eateries, pet salon and a lovely park area.
Along with a slew of design businesses and boutiques based here, Tokyo Midtown is also home to the Suntory Museum of Art (Map; 3479-8600; www.suntory.com/culture-sports/sma/index.html; 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku; admission ¥1300/1000/free; ; 10am-6pm Sun-Mon, 10am-8pm Wed-Sat; Hibiya & Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exit 8). It’s another point of the Art Triangle, with spacious galleries showcasing the museum’s collection of Japanese antiques and traditional arts and crafts. Occasionally, the museum also exhibits temporary exhibitions on loan from other institutions.
NATIONAL ART CENTER TOKYO
When the beautifully curvaceous glass exterior of the National Art Center Tokyo (Map; 5777 8600; www.nact.jp; 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission varies; 10am-6pm Wed & Sat-Mon, 10am-8pm Fri; ; Chiyoda line to Nogizaka, exit 6 or Hibiya & Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exits 4a & 7) glints into view, you’ll know you’ve reached the last point in the Art Triangle. If the current exhibitions don’t interest you, the fabulous museum shop is a treasure-trove of unusual, artsy gifts.
HIE-JINJA
This modern shrine is largely cement, but the highlight of Hie-jinja (Map; 3581-2471; www.hiejinja.net/jinja/english/index.html; 2-10-5 Nagatachō, Chiyoda-ku; Ginza, Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke, Belle Vie exit) is the walk up to the shrine through a ‘tunnel’ of orange torii – a spectacular sight during cherry-blossom season. Walking south on Sotobori-dōri, look for the concrete plaza-style entrance leading up to the shrine gates.
TOKYO TOWER
Nine metres taller than the Eiffel Tower, on which it is based, the 333m Tokyo Tower (Map; 3433-5111; www.tokyotower.co.jp/english/; 4-2-8 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; main observation deck ¥310-820, special observation deck extra ¥350-600; 9am-10pm; Hibiya line to Kamiyachō, exits 1 & 2) is a pleasantly retro spire from which to look out across Tokyo. Completed in 1958, it stands as a kind of old-school counterpoint to ultramodern Roppongi Hills. While the daytime view is unremarkable, the night view is stellar.
Behind Tokyo Tower, Zōjō-ji (Map; 3432-1431; 4-7-35 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; dawn-dusk; Toei Ōedo line to Akabanebashi, Akabanebashi exit) was the family temple of the Tokugawas. Visit in the evening, walking to Tokyo Tower from Hamamatsuchō station on the JR Yamanote line. Cut through Zōjō-ji and admire the bizarre juxtaposition of the illuminated tower leaping skyward above the dark shape of the main hall.
ŌKURA SHŪKOKAN
On the grounds of the venerable Ōkura Hotel, this small museum (Map; 3583-0781; 2-10-3 Toranomon, Minato-ku; adult/student/child ¥800/500/free; 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; Ginza line to Tameike-sannō, exit 13) displays a collection of sculpture, lacquer writing boxes and no fewer than three National Treasures, all surrounded by a small but well-populated sculpture garden.
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay
Built on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, the island of Odaiba stands as another reminder that Tokyo is a waterfront city. Aside from the whole fake-island angle, Odaiba has loads of oddities that trump the views of Tokyo across the bay – including bizarre architecture, a petite Statue of Liberty, and an onsen (hot spring) dressed up as an ersatz Edo-era town.
Get to Odaiba on the driverless Yurikamome monorail, which departs from Shimbashi station, and get around the island on the free shuttle than runs from 11am to 8pm.
SHOPPING MALLS & AMUSEMENT ARCADES
No district of Tokyo would be complete without its shrines to shopping, such