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Julia Child

A LIPPER™/VIKING BOOK

PUBLISHED TITLES IN THE PENGUIN LIVES SERIES:

Larry McMurtry on Crazy Horse

Edmund White on Marcel Proust. Peter Gay on Mozart

Garry Wills on Saint Augustine. Jonathan Spence on Mao Zedong

Edna O’Brien on James Joyce. Douglas Brinkley on Rosa Parks

Elizabeth Hardwick on Herman Melville

Louis Auchincloss on Woodrow Wilson

Mary Gordon on Joan of Arc

Sherwin B. Nuland on Leonardo da Vinci

Nigel Nicolson on Virginia Woolf. Carol Shields on Jane Austen

Karen Armstrong on the Buddha. R.W. B. Lewis on Dante

Francine du Plessix Gray on Simone Weil

Patricia Bosworth on Marlon Brando

Wayne Koestenbaum on Andy Warhol

Thomas Cahill on Pope John XXIII

Marshall Frady on Martin Luther King, Jr.

Paul Johnson on Napoleon. Jane Smiley on Charles Dickens

John Keegan on Winston Churchill

Robert V. Remini on Joseph Smith

Thomas Keneally on Abraham Lincoln

Bobbie Ann Mason on Elvis Presley

Roy Blount, Jr., on Robert E. Lee

Kathryn Harrison on Saint Thérèse of Lisieux

Martin Marty on Martin Luther

Tom Wicker on George Herbert Walker Bush

Ada Louise Huxtable on Frank Lloyd Wright

FORTHCOMING:

Jimmy Breslin on Branch Rickey

LAURA SHAPIRO

Julia Child

A Penguin Life

A LIPPER™/VIKING BOOK


VIKING

Published by the Penguin Group

Penguin Group (USA) Inc., 375 Hudson Street,

New York, New York 10014, U.S.A.

Penguin Group (Canada), 90 Eglinton Avenue East, Suite 700, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4P 2Y3 (a division of Pearson Penguin Canada Inc.). Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England. Penguin Ireland, 25 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland (a division of Penguin Books Ltd). Penguin Books Australia Ltd, 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia (a division of Pearson Australia Group Pty Ltd). Penguin Books India Pvt Ltd, 11 Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi–110 017, India. Penguin Group (NZ), 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1311, New Zealand (a division of Pearson New Zealand Ltd). Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd, 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg 2196, South Africa

Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

First published in 2007 by Viking Penguin, a member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

Copyright © Laura Shapiro, 2007

All rights reserved

A portion of this book appeared in different form as “Sacred Cows and Dreamberries: In Search of the Flavor of France,” Gastronomica 5, no. 3 (Summer 2005).

An extension of this copyright page appears at the end of this book.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA

Shapiro, Laura.

Julia Child / Laura Shapiro.

p. cm.—(A Penguin life)

ISBN: 978-1-1012-0293-7

1. Child, Julia. 2. Cooks—United States—Biography. I. Title.

TX649.C47S53 2007

641.5092—dc22 2006052560

Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.

The scanning, uploading, and distribution of this book via the Internet or via any other means without the permission of the publisher is illegal and punishable by law. Please purchase only authorized electronic editions and do not participate in or encourage electronic piracy of copyrightable materials. Your support of the author’s rights is appreciated.

To Barbara Haber

PREFACE

IT’S A BIG, RAW GOOSE, naked as a baby, and she’s holding it up by its massive wings, gleefully wiggling them before the camera as if she’d like to waltz around the kitchen with her magnificent bird. “A ten-pound beauty!” she exclaims. “You can cut it all up, simmer it in wine, serve it with a delicious sauce—see how to ragout a goose, today on The French Chef!”

Julia Child loved handling food. She loved slathering great gobs of butter around a pan with her bare hand and plunging a forefinger into a thick

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