Knit Socks - Betsy Lee Mccarthy [15]
Round 5: Using cc2 and cc1, *K4 cc2, K1 cc1, K1 cc2, K1 cc1, K1 cc2; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: Using cc2 and cc1, *K3 cc2, K5 cc1; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 7: Using cc1 and mc, *K4 cc1, K3 mc, K1 cc1; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 8: Using cc1 and mc, *K1 cc1, K1 mc, K1 cc1, K5 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 9: Using cc1 and mc, *K3 cc1, K2 mc, K1 cc1, K2 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 10: Using cc1 and mc, *K1 cc1, K1 mc, K1 cc1, K5 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 11: Using cc1 and mc, *K4 cc1, K3 mc, K1 cc1; repeat from * to end of round. Break off mc, leaving a 6” (15cm) tail to weave in.
Rounds 12–16: Repeat Rounds 2– 6. At the end of Round 16, break off cc2, leaving a 6” (15cm) tail to weave in.
Round 17: Using cc1, knit to end of round. If using larger needle for stranded knitting on cuff, switch back to smaller needles now.
Round 18: Using cc1 and smaller needles, purl to end of round. Break off cc1, leaving a 6” (15cm) tail to weave in.
KNITTING THE STRIPED LEG
NOTE: The stockinette-stitch leg features alternating stripes of mc and cc2. For a little surprise and visual interest, the stripe size changes from 4 to 5 rows of each color midway down the sock foot. For an easy technique for smoothing out the “jog” where colors change in stripes, see Striping without Jogs, page 58.
Rounds 1–4: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Rounds 5–8: Using cc2, knit to end of each round.
Striping without Jogs
When knitting in the round, rather than producing completed circles, you are actually knitting an ever-moving spiral. This results in a “jog,” or little step up, when the first stitch of the new color's second row is knit. Meg Swansen popularized a simple “jogless join” technique to avoid this problem and to smooth out the transition from one color to another. Here's how to do it:
1. When you are ready to add a new yarn, drop the old yarn and knit the first stitch in the round with the new yarn.
2. Knit a complete round with the new yarn.
3. Just before you knit the first stitch of the second round of the new yarn, use the tip of your right-hand needle to reach down below the first new yarn stitch into the old yarn stitch under it, and lift the right leg of the old stitch onto the left-hand needle.
4. Knit the old and new stitches together, then continue working with the new yarn.
You do this “jogless join” only one time when you are changing colors and are ready to begin the second round of the new color. When you later weave in the tails, pull them to tighten as usual and then weave them into the wrong side. Weave in a direction that helps pull the old yarn up and the new yarn down a bit to further smooth out the join. For more advice on starting new yarns, see Splicing Ends Together, page 123.
Rounds 9–32: Repeat Rounds 1– 8. You will have a total of 4 stripes of each color, and the leg will measure about 6½” (16cm) from the top of the scallop. End the row on the right-hand side of the leg. Break off mc and cc2, leaving 6” (15cm) tails for weaving in.
MAKING THE PATTERNED HEEL FLAP
NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth on the 31 heel flap stitches, using 2 needles/needle tips, while the 33 instep stitches wait until needed again. The heel flap features a garter stitch edging, formed by knitting 3 stitches at the beginning and end of every row. Although you may want to change to the larger needle for the heel, staying on smaller needle will make heel flap tighter and give it extra durability.
CHART NOTES: For the heel flap, follow the Winter Garden Heel Chart (page 63), beginning at the bottom right on Row 1. Knit all stitches on the right side (odd-numbered rows) and, except for the garter stitch edging, purl the stitches on the wrong side (even-numbered rows). The text on the next page corresponds to the chart.
Row 1 (rs): With cc1, knit across the next 31 stitches, knitting them onto 1 needle, and place the last (thirty-second) stitch on the instep needle. You now have 31 stitches on one needle,