Knit Socks - Betsy Lee Mccarthy [18]
WORKING THE SOCK TOP
NOTE: You have a choice of variations for the sock top: double rolled or traditional ribbing. The rolled top can be worn “up” with reverse stockinette edge or rolled down to create two contrasting rolls.
Rolled Top only:
Round 1: Using cc1, purl every round for 1” (2.5cm).
Round 2: Change to mc and knit every round for 1” (2.5cm).
Ribbed Top only: Using cc1, K1, P1 to end of each round for 1½” (4cm), or desired length.
WORKING THE SOCK LEG
Using mc, knit to end of each round until sock measures 2” (5cm) from introduction of mc.
NOTE: Begin here to work Chart A (page 84), Rounds 1–37, changing colors as indicated. Work chart from right to left, beginning on Line 1 at bottom of chart; repeat 4-stitch pattern to end of each round. Note that the lettering is worked on Rounds 17–21, using the Alphabet Chart provided. Below, I walk you through the chart, round by round. For advice on starting new yarns, see Splicing Ends Together, page 123.
Round 1: Using cc1, knit to end of round.
Round 2: Using cc1 and mc, *K1 cc1, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3–4: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 5: Using cc2 and mc, *K1 cc2, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 6–7: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 8: Using cc1 and mc, *K1 cc1, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 9: Using cc1, knit to end of round.
Rounds 10–11: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 12: Using mc and cc3, K1 mc, *K1 cc3, K3 mc; repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1 cc3, K2 mc.
Round 13: Using cc3 and mc, *K1 cc3, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 14: Using mc and cc3, *K3 mc, K1 cc3; repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 15–16: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Rounds 17–21: Work the lettering on these rounds. Using the alphabet provided (page 84) and graph paper, center words of your choice and use mc as the background color to separate letters and words, and cc2 for the lettering. The graph will look upside down when you work it on a top-down sock, as shown in the Alphabet Chart (page 84) for use.
Rounds 22–23: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 24: Using mc and cc3, *K3 mc, K1 cc3; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 25: Using cc3 and mc, *K1 cc3, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 26: Using mc and cc3, K1 mc, *K1 cc3, K3 mc; repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1 cc3, K2 mc.
Rounds 27–28: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 29: Using cc1, knit to end of round.
Round 30: Using cc1 and mc, *K1 cc1, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 31–32: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 33: Using cc2 and mc, *K1 cc2, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 34 –35: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Round 36: Using cc1 and mc, *K1 cc1, K1 mc; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 37: Using cc1, knit to end of round. (Chart A completed.)
Rounds 38 –39: Using mc, knit to end of each round.
Sock length will be approximately 6¾” (16cm) from introduction of mc.
MAKING THE HEEL FLAP
SETUP
Row 1 (rs): Using mc, K14 stitches from Needle 1 onto Needle 4 for the heel flap. You will work the 28 heel flap stitches back and forth using 2 needles. Break off mc, leaving a 6” (15cm) tail to weave in.
Row 2 (ws): Using cc2 and reinforcing yarn, if desired, turn to wrong side and purl to end of needle. Turn back to right side.
NOTE: In working the heel flap and turning the heel, slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front on wrong-side rows and yarn in back on right-side rows.
Row 1 (rs): *Slip 1, K1; repeat from * to end of needle. Turn.
Row 2 (ws): Slip 1, P to end of needle. Turn.
Rows 3–26: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, or work until the heel flap is approximately 2½” (6cm), or desired length.
Row 27: Repeat Row 1. Turn over to wrong side in preparation for turning the heel. Break off cc2, leaving a tail. Heel flap is complete.
TURNING THE HEEL
SETUP: Attach cc1 and begin turning the heel.
Row 1: Slip 1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn, leaving 10 sts unworked.
Row 2: Slip 1, K3, ssk, K1, turn, leaving 10 sts unworked.