Knit Socks - Betsy Lee Mccarthy [21]
• Consider breaking “rules,” such as variegated yarns not being suitable for cables or certain patterns. Play with patterns, making various swatches until you hit on something pleasing to you. Try something different, like combining a number of different ribs, one after the other, in a “traditional” ribbed-style sock. Think about putting words in surprising places, in surprising colors! Make a cuff with a color or texture pattern you want to try out and follow that with interesting ribs down the leg. Play and have fun creating your own special socks!
You've Got Rhythm
This trio of patterns has variety and something for everyone. Rhythm is worked in brightly colored hand-painted yarn using a rhythmic, slip-stitch pattern. A two-color version — Double Time — provides double the fun, while a shimmering rib dances down the third sock in Shimmy Rib. All three socks use the same easy lace cuff. Or, work a traditional knit-and-purl ribbing, for a stretchy, unisex pattern you're sure to return to again and again.
GETTING STARTED
NOTE: In all 3 patterns, the first half of the stitches cast on and worked become the instep stitches and the remaining (last half) are the heel stitches.
SETUP: Loosely cast on 72 stitches. Divide stitches evenly among the needles. Join into a round, being careful not to twist. (For instructions, see Joining: Trading Places and Getting Ready to Work, page 16.)
WORKING THE CUFF
Round 1: Purl to end of each needle.
Round 2: Knit to end of each needle.
Round 3: *P1, ssk, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, K2tog, P1; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: P1, K7, *P2, K7; repeat from * to last stitch, P1.
Rounds 5–8: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 two more times.
Rounds 9–10: Purl to end of each needle.
Rounds 11–13: Knit to end of each needle.
Round 14: Purl to end of each needle.
Round 15: *P1, K2tog, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, ssk, P1; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 16: Purl to end of each needle.
Rounds 17–19: Knit to end of each needle.
Rounds 20–21: Purl to end of each needle.
Working with Color
• When changing yarn colors, bring the new color up from under the old to prevent holes.
• One of the Double Time sock models shows the cc and mc are reversed in both leg and foot sections. You may want to make your own changes.
Pattern Stitches (see charts, page 102)
Rhythm (multiple of 6 stitches)
Rounds 1 and 2: Knit to end of each needle.
Round 3: K1, *slip 1, K2; repeat from * ending with slip 1, K1.
Round 4: P1, *slip 1, P2; repeat from * ending with slip 1, P1.
Double Time (multiple of 6 stitches)
Rounds 1 and 2: Using mc, knit to end of each needle.
Round 3: Using cc, K1, *slip 1, K2; repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Round 4: Using cc, P1, *slip 1, P2; repeat from * to last stitch, P1.
Shimmy Rib (multiple of 6 stitches)
Rounds 1–4: *P1, K4, P1; repeat from * to end of round
Rounds 5–8: *K2, P2, K2; repeat from * to end of round
WORKING THE SOCK LEG
Work your chosen stitch pattern until the leg measures approximately 7” (or desired length) from cast on, slipping all stitches as if to purl, holding yarn in back.
Rhythm and Double Time only: End with Round 2 of the pattern. Turn work.
Shimmy Rib only: End with either Round 4 or Round 8. Turn work.
MAKING THE HEEL FLAP
NOTE: Beginning on the wrong side, work the heel flap back and forth on 36 heel stitches while the instep stitches wait on their needle(s) until you use them again for Picking Up Stitches for the Heel Gusset (page 101). Slip all heel stitches purlwise, with yarn in front on the wrong side and with yarn in back on right-side rows.
Double Time only: Begin working heel using mc.
Row 1 (ws): Slip 1, P to end of heel stitches, turn.
Row 2 (rs): *Slip 1, K1; repeat from * to end of heel stitches.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap is approx. 2½” (6cm) long or desired length, ending with a right-side row. (Nineteen repeats of Rows 1 and 2 = 2½” (6cm) in pattern models.)
TURNING THE HEEL
Row