Knit Socks - Betsy Lee Mccarthy [23]
Round 1: Knit to end of each needle.
Round 2
Instep stitches: K1, ssk, K to last 3 instep stitches, K2tog, K1.
Sole stitches: K1, ssk, K to last 3 heel stitches, K2tog, K1.
Round 3: Knit to end of each needle.
Next Rounds: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until 16 stitches remain (8 instep and 8 sole stitches).
CLOSING THE TOE AND FINISHING THE SOCK
Break yarn, leaving a 10” (25cm) tail. Hold the remaining stitches parallel on two needles or needle tips. Using the tail threaded on a yarn needle, graft the front and back stitches together using Kitchener stitch (see pages 29–30). Weave in the end after grafting the toe. Weave in any other loose ends.
To block, lightly mist or steam the sock and pat it gently into shape.
Rhythm
Double Time
Shimmy Rib
Off the Cuff
Sensible socks can be attractive! These classic, cuffed anklets with contrasting trim and toes are ready for anything. Use a soft cotton-blend yarn to make them an instant and comfy favorite. Instructions include two sizes and can be adjusted for more. Begin with a small band of stockinette stitch that curls under to create an interesting cuff edging. Add more stripes where you want to personalize your socks.
Substitutions
This is the perfect pattern to adapt for a plain stockinette-stitch sock in fingering-weight yarn using either 64 stitches or 72 stitches. Substitute K1, P1 ribbing for the 1”–1½” (2.5–3.75cm) cuff instructions on page 106. Then knit all rounds to heel flap (7“/17.5cm) from cast on or desired length.
Lacy Days
Three traditional Japanese, easy-to-learn lace patterns adorn these elegantly simple socks. Their stretchiness makes them fit well. The cuffs vary: traditional 1×1 ribbing, seed stitch, and a modified knit-purl ribbing.
Pattern Stitches (see charts, page 122)
Clouds (multiple of 6 stitches)
Round 1: *P1, ssk, YO, K1, YO, K2tog; repeat from * to end.
Rounds 2, 3, and 4: *P1, K5; repeat from * to end.
Round 5: *K1, YO, K2tog, P1, ssk, YO; repeat from * to end. Rounds 6, 7, and 8: *K3, P1, K2; repeat from * to end.
Dreams (multiple of 6 stitches)
Rounds 1, 2: Knit.
Round 3: Purl.
Round 4: *K2, YO, s2kp, YO, K1; repeat from *to end.
Patchwork (multiple of 10 stitches)
Rounds 1, 3, 5 and 7: *K2tog, YO, K1, YO, ssk, K5; repeat from * to end.
Rounds 2, 4, 6 and 8: Knit.
Rounds 9, 11, 13, and 15: *K 5, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, ssk; repeat from * to end.
Rounds 10, 12, 14, and 16: Knit.
Picking Up Stitches for Heel Gusset
As explained in Secrets for Tight, Smooth Gussets (pages 26–29), you may want to pick up more stitches, if needed, to avoid gaps and looseness along the heel flap edges. I pick up 1 stitch in every slipped stitch and occasionally add another 1 or so at the top to eliminate the pesky holes. The extras can be eliminated by knitting 2 stitches together where the last gusset stitches and the stitches that remained after turning come together or at the top of the gusset before working the first decrease round. Or you can just keep repeating gusset decrease rounds 1 and 2 until the original 48 or 60 total stitches are on the needle.
Clouds
Dreams
Patchwork
Splicing Ends Together
A quick and easy way to join old and new yarns is to spit-splice them together to avoid weaving in the ends. This is a timesaver for socks that have a number of different yarns and regular color changes. In addition, the join made is very smooth and strong. Here's how to do it:
Separate the plies in each of the yarn ends to be spliced. Really pick them apart for about 1”–1½” (2.5–4cm) as shown in the illustration. Bring the two ends together, so that the plies overlap and plies from the two ends are intermingled. Then moisten the area of the join with saliva until it is pretty wet (you don't really have to spit on it!). Next, put the join between the palms of your hands and rub them together vigorously. The overlapped area will get thinner and thinner until it is about the size of a single yarn end. The heat and friction from your palm rubbing