Life [14]
In Dartford in those days, and maybe still, you turned one way to the west, and there was the city. But if you went east or south, you got deep country. You were aware you were right at the very edge. In those days, Dartford was a real peripheral suburb. It also had its own character; it still does. It didn’t feel part of London. You didn’t feel that you were a Londoner. I can’t quite remember any civic pride in Dartford when I was growing up. It was somewhere to get out of. I didn’t feel any nostalgia when I went back that day, except for one thing—the smell of the heath. That brought back more memories than anything else. I love the air of Sussex, where I live, to death, but there’s a certain mixture of stuff on Dartford Heath, a unique smell of gorse and heather that I don’t get anywhere else. The glory bumps had gone, or were grown over or weren’t as big as I thought they were, but walking through that bracken took me back.
London to me when I grew up was horse shit and coal smoke. For five or six years after the war there was more horse-drawn traffic in London than there was after the First World War. It was a pungent mixture, which I really miss. It was a sort of bed you lay in, sensory-wise. I’m going to try and market it for the older citizens. Remember this? London Pong.
London hasn’t changed that much to me except for the smell, and the fact you can now see how beautiful some of the buildings are, like the Natural History Museum, with the grime cleaned off and the blue tiles. Nothing looked like that then. The other thing was that the street belonged to you. I remember later on seeing pictures of Chichester High Street in the 1900s, and the only things in the street are kids playing ball and a horse and cart coming down the road. You just got out the way for the occasional vehicle.
When I was growing up, it was heavy fog almost all winter, and if you’ve got two or three miles to walk to get back home, it was the dogs that led you. Suddenly old Dodger would show up with a patch on his eye, and you could basically guide your way home by that. Sometimes the fog was so thick you couldn’t see a thing. And old Dodger would take you up and hand you over to some Labrador. Animals were in the street, something that’s disappeared. I would have got lost and died without some help from my canine friends.
When I was nine they gave us a council house in Temple Hill, in a wasteland. I was much happier in Chastilian Road. But Doris considered we were very lucky. “We’ve got a house” and all of that crap. OK, so you drag your arse to the other side of town. There was, of course, a serious housing crisis for a few years after the war. In Dartford many people were living in prefabs in Princes Road. Charlie Watts was still living in a prefab when I first met him in 1962—a whole section of the population had put down roots in these asbestos and tin-roof buildings, lovingly cared for them. There wasn’t much the British government could do after the war except try and clean up the mess, which you were part of. They glorified themselves in the process, of course. They called the streets of this new estate after themselves, the Labour Party elite, past and present—a little hastily in the latter category, maybe, given that they had been in power only six years before they were out again. They saw themselves as heroes of a working-class struggle—one of whose militants and party faithful was my own granddad Ernie Richards, who had, with my grandmother Eliza, more or less created the Walthamstow Labour Party.
The estate had been opened in 1947 by Clement Attlee, the postwar prime minister and Ernie’s friend, one