London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [108]
Maison Bertaux.
£ | CAFÉ | Romantics cherish this tiny, two-story 1871 French pâtisserie, where nothing seems to have changed in the past few decades. Framed with a vintage blue-and-white awning, the choux pastry and gooey cakes at this time-warp Soho institution are renowned and baked on-site. The chocolate éclairs, Black Forest gâteaux, and almond croissants always delight. Run by Soho legend Michelle Wade, Maison Bertaux also hosts a cheery tea service, which comes with tasty savories, like broccoli quiche or Dijon slice (cheese, peppers, and Dijon mustard). | 28 Greek St., Soho | W1D 5DQ | 020/7437–6007 | www.maisonbertaux.com | No credit cards | Leicester Sq.
Paramount.
£££ | BRITISH | Unrivaled panoramic views of London are the big draw at this 32nd-floor restaurant at Centre Point near Tottenham Court Road. Ask to dine by the window at dusk and look east as the lights come on at the London Eye, Tower Bridge, the Gherkin, along the Thames, and at the cluster of towers at Canary Wharf. Despite hosting possibly the best views in London, the pricey food is only fairly decent, and no match for the majesty on offer. Our advice? Chin up, have a cocktail, admire London from above, and stick to the less fiddly dishes on the menu, such as roast Cobb chicken with Somerset truffles or Denham Castle lamb with wild garlic. | 101–103 New Oxford St., Soho | WC1A 1DD | 020/7420–2900 | www.paramount.uk.net | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun. | Tottenham Court Rd.
Yauatcha.
££ | CHINESE | It’s all-day dim sum at this superbly lighted slinky Soho classic. Well designed by Christian Liaigre—with black granite floors, aquarium, candles, and a starry ceiling—the food is a match for the seductive setting. There’s wicked dim sum (try prawns or scallops), crispy duck rolls, silver cod, fancy cocktails, tea and colorful cakes in the first-floor tearoom. Note the quick table turns, and ask to dine in the more romantic basement at night. | 15 Broadwick St., Soho | W1F ODL | 020/7494–8888 | www.yauatcha.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Oxford Circus
COVENT GARDEN
Canela.
£ | PORTUGUESE | Hidden behind Neal Street in Covent Garden, this laid-back Portuguese–Brazilian café serves unusual savories, pastries, and strong coffee. Portuguese snacks including chicken-stuffed coxinha dumplings are £2.50, and mains like feijoada (black bean stew and smoked pork), meatballs in tomato sauce, or bacalhau salt cod with fried potatoes are less than £10. There’s a collection of wheat- and gluten-free coconut, chocolate, orange and carrot cakes. | 33 Earlham St., Covent Garden | WC2H 9LS | 020/7240–6926 | www.canelacafe.com | MC, V | Covent Garden, Holborn
Food for Thought.
£ | VEGETARIAN | This 1970s-style subterranean vegetarian café without a liquor license (BYO without a corkage fee) on Neal Street, has got a cult following, so be prepared to wait. You’ll find wooden communal tables and a daily menu of soups, salads, stews, quiches, stir-fries, bakes, and casseroles. Wheat-free, gluten-free, genetically modified–free, and vegan options are available. Note that it’s open noon until 8:30 pm Monday–Saturday, and to 5 pm Sunday. | 31 Neal St., Covent Garden | WC2H 9PR | 020/7836–9072 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | BYOB | Covent Garden
Fodor’s Choice | Great Queen Street.
£££ | MODERN BRITISH | Expect crowds at Covent Garden’s leading gastropub that showcases classic British dishes in a burgundy and bare oak-floor-and-table setting. Old-fashioned offerings like pressed tongue, mackerel and gooseberry, Old Spot pork, and mussels and brown crab on toast may be revived from a bygone era,