London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [118]
Princess Victoria.
££ | BRITISH | This renovated 1829 former gin palace—high ceilings, gilded mirrors, etched glass, and carved wood bars—makes for a magnificent gastropub setting on a bleak stretch of Uxbridge Road in Shepherd’s Bush. With main courses under £16, top dishes range from steak and triple-cooked chips to green pea risotto and sea trout and mash. The 350-strong wine list is overseen by sommelier and co-owner Matt Wilkin, with a particular focus on boutique growers from the Rhône in France. | 217 Uxbridge Rd., Shepherd’s Bush | W12 9DH | 020/8749–5886 | www.princessvictoria.co.uk | MC, V | Shepherd’s Bush, Uxbridge Rd. .
River Café.
££££ | ITALIAN | The open-kitchen Italian restaurant sets the standard with its simple roasts, fresh salads, pastas, and char-grilled meats. The chefs source ultrafresh, impeccable seasonal ingredients, so expect Tuscan bread soup, handmade nettle-and-ricotta pasta, veal shin with lemon and sage, and signature chocolate nemesis cake—plus one of London’s highest bills. This is in distant Hammersmith in west London, so if you get a table, remember that you’ll need to book a cab ahead or walk about 15 minutes to the closest Tube. Note that tables are cleared by 11 pm on Monday–Thursday, and 11:20 pm Friday and Saturday. | Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd., Hammersmith | W6 9HA | 020/7386–4200 | www.rivercafe.co.uk | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Hammersmith
Chez Marcelle.
£ | LEBANESE | Foodies brave crosstown traffic for the authentic Lebanese meze, tabbouleh, and grilled and stuffed meats at this quirky cash-only neighborhood joint in Olympia. One-woman-show and owner Marcelle Daou does much of the cooking and runs the place like home. An £18 spread includes hummus, grilled eggplant, fried potato, falafel, fatoush salad, stuffed lamb, and pita bread—not forgetting mint tea and honeyed baklava pastries. | 34 Blythe Rd., Olympia | W14 0HA | 020/7603–3241 | No credit cards | Olympia, Hammersmith
Patio.
£ | POLISH | With velvet drapes, gilt mirrors, and vintage pictures on the wall, everyone says Patio reminds them of dining at the home of an elderly Polish great aunt. Presided over by ex–opera singer Eva Michalik, expect home-cooked Polish fare, plus complimentary vodka shots and coconut cake at this Shepherd’s Bush stalwart. Hearty dishes include borscht, Polish ham, salmon blinis, pork schnitzel, and bigos hunters’ stew (with white cabbage and Polish sausage). The four-course £16.50 dinner is a must. | 5 Goldhawk Rd., Shepherd’s Bush | W12 8QQ | 020/8743–5194 | AE, MC, V | Shepherd’s Bush
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Updated by Jack Jewers
You’ll find many things in London hotels: luxury, extraordinary service, and incredible views. But one thing you’ll look long and hard for is a bargain. Rooms have traditionally been expensive, and the wild swings of the exchange rate make it hard to predict just how much you’ll end up paying.
Meanwhile, the London hotel market is focusing on luxury, luxury, luxury. Five-star hotels close, renovate, and reopen with increased prices at a dizzying pace. If it’s any consolation, London does luxury better than just about any city, so you’ll get your money’s worth.
However, it’s not all bad news for those on more realistic budgets. The city’s midrange hotel scene is at long last getting its act together, and there is now a small but solid range