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the same way about the low-slung, multilayered “Brutalist” block the color of heavy storm clouds (designed by Sir Denys Lasdun) as they would feel a decade later about the Barbican Centre. Prince Charles described the building as “a clever way of building a nuclear power station in the middle of London without anyone objecting.” But whatever its merits or demerits as a feature on the landscape, the Royal National Theatre’s interior spaces are definitely worth a tour. Interspersed with the three theaters, the 1,120-seat Olivier, the 890-seat Lyttelton, and the 300-seat Cottesloe, is a multilayered foyer with exhibitions, bars, and restaurants, and free entertainment. Musicals, classics, and new plays are performed by a top-flight company. Some shows offer £10 ticket deals. | Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd., South Bank | SE1 9PX | 020/7452–3000 box office, 0207/452–3400 information | www.nationaltheatre.org.uk | Tour £5.90 | Foyer Mon.–Sat. 9:30 am–11 pm; 75-min tour backstage up to 6 times daily weekdays, twice on Sat., often on Sun. | Waterloo.

The Old Vic.

Who would have thought it? This grand old theater, former haunting grounds of such stage legends as John Gielgud, Vivien Leigh, Peter O’Toole, Richard Burton, and Judi Dench is now masterminded by noted American actor Kevin Spacey. Even though Laurence Olivier called this grand 1818 Victorian theater his favorite, the theater had suffered decades of financial duress. Before being shut down, however, the Old Vic was brought under the ownership of a dedicated trust headed by Spacey. His production record so far has been spotty but there are high hopes, at this writing, for his interpretation of Shakespeare’s Richard III. | The Cut, Southwark | SE1 8NB | 0844/871–7628 | www.oldvictheatre.com | Waterloo.

Fodor’s Choice | Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.

Making world headlines when the Globe “reopened” in 1996 to wide acclaim, this faithful reconstruction of the open-air playhouse where Shakespeare worked and wrote many of his greatest plays marvelously re-creates the 16th-century theatergoing experience. Standing room in the “pit” right in front of the stage costs £5. The season runs April through October. | 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, South Bank | SE1 9DT | 020/7401–9919 | www.shakespeares-globe.org | Southwark, then walk to Blackfriars Bridge and descend steps; Mansion House, then cross Southwark Bridge; Blackfriars, then walk across Blackfriars Bridge; St. Paul’s, then cross Millenium Bridge.

Young Vic.

Ensconced in a new home near Waterloo, big names perform here alongside young talent, often in daring, innovative productions of classic plays. | 66 The Cut, Waterloo, South Bank | SE1 8LZ | 020/922–2922 | www.youngvic.org | Waterloo.

THE EAST END

HACKNEY

Theater

Hackney Empire.

The history of this treasure of a theater is drama in its own right. Charlie Chaplin is said to have appeared here during its days as a thriving variety theater and music hall in the early 1900s. After a major refurbishment in the last decade, it now hosts traditional family entertainment and variety shows, opera, musical theater, dance, and drama, often with a multicultural slant. | 291 Mare St., Hackney | E8 1EJ | 020/8985–2424 | www.hackneyempire.co.uk | National Rail: Hackney Central.

HOXTON

Art Gallery

White Cube.

The English role in the exploding contemporary art scene has been a major one, thanks in good portion to Jay Joplin’s influential gallery. Housed in a 1920s light-industrial building on Hoxton Square, it is home-base for an array of artists who have won the Turner Prize—Hirst, Emin, Hume, et al.—with many of these superstars now residing in the East End (which supposedly has the highest concentration of artists in Europe). Farther west, White Cube now has a second gallery in a striking building in Mason’s Yard, St. James’s, reflecting its central status in London’s art world. | 48 Hoxton Sq., Hoxton | N1 6PB | 020/7930–5373 | www.whitecube.com | Free | Tues.–Sat. 10–6 | Old St.

SHOREDITCH

Art Gallery

Whitechapel Art Gallery.

Established in 1897 and newly expanded,

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