London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [185]
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Bloomsbury | Holborn | Islington | Camden | The City | The South Bank | The East End | Belgravia | Chelsea | Kensington | Knightsbridge | Notting Hill | Marylebone | Mayfair | St. James’s | Covent Garden | Soho
BLOOMSBURY
Accessories
James Smith & Sons Ltd.
This has to be the world’s ultimate umbrella shop, and a must for anyone interested in real Victorian London. The family-owned shop has been in business since 1857 in the same New Oxford Street corner, and sells every kind of umbrella, cane, and walking stick imaginable. The decor is unchanged since the 19th century; you will feel as if you have stepped back into time. If the umbrellas are out of your price range, James Smith also sells smaller accessories and handmade wooden bowls. | Hazelwood House,53 New Oxford St., Bloomsbury | WC1A 1BL | 020/7836–4731 | www.james-smith.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Tottenham Court Rd., Holborn.
Books
Gay’s the Word.
Open since 1979, this is London’s leading gay and lesbian bookshop. Thousands of titles, from literature, thoughtful nonfiction to erotica, and even detective novels, fill the shelves. The shop is a well-loved fixture on the scene, and often hosts discussion groups, readings, and other events. | 66 Marchmont St., Bloomsbury | WC1N 1AB | 020/7278–7654 | www.gaystheword.co.uk | Closed Sun. morning | Russell Sq.
Persephone Books.
A must for all lovers of feminist fiction and non-fiction, Persephone is on Lamb’s Conduit Street in the heart of Bloomsbury. A gem of a bookshop specializes in reprinting mostly neglected 20th-century stories from predominately female writers. The exquisitely decorated covers make for perfect gifts for your bibliophile friends. | 59 Lamb’s Conduit St., Bloomsbury | WC1N 3NB | 020/7242–9292 | www.persephonebooks.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Russell Sq.
Stationery
Paperchase.
The stationery superstore of London, Paperchase sells writing paper in every conceivable shade and in a dozen mediums. There are lovely cards, artists’ materials, notebooks, and loose stationery. The three-floor store has a café. Other branches in London include the King’s Road in Chelsea, and The Piazza in Covent Garden. | 213–215 Tottenham Court Rd., Bloomsbury | W1T 7PS | 020/7467–6200 | www.paperchase.co.uk | Goodge St.
HOLBORN
Antiques
London Silver Vaults.
Housed in a basement vault, this extraordinary space holds stalls from more than 30 silver dealers. Products range from the spectacular to the over-the-top, but you can also pick up smaller items, from a set of Victorian cake forks to a teaspoon or candlesticks. TIP Most of the silver merchants actually trade out of room-size, underground vaults, which were originally rented out to London’s upper crust to store their valuables. | 53–64 Chancery La., Holborn | WC2A 1QT | 020/7242–3844 | www.thesilvervaults.com | Closed Sat. after 1, and Sun. | Chancery La.
ISLINGTON
Household
TwentyTwentyOne.
Open since 1996, TwentyTwentyOne showcases the best in both modern and vintage furniture. There are design classics like a chaise longue from Le Corbusier, as well curvy daybeds from designer Jacob Pringiers. The kids’ range is particularly cool, such as the plastic elephants designed by the Eames brothers, and small accessories like tote bags and cushion covers will easily fit into your luggage. | 274 Upper St., Islington | N1 2UA | 020/7288–1996 | www.twentytwentyone.com | Highbury & Islington.
CAMDEN
Markets
The Camden Markets.
This area is actually composed of several alternative markets that are gathered around a pair of locks in Regent’s Canal. Camden Lock Market proper began in 1973 on the site of a former timber yard. The Lock studios attracted artists with reasonable rents and gave customers the chance to see goods being made.