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London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [19]

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son William Rufus. It’s one of the largest remaining Norman halls in Europe, and its dramatic interior was the scene of the trial of Charles I.

After the 1834 fire, the Clock Tower was completed in 1858, and contains the 13-ton bell known as Big Ben. At the southwest end of the main Parliament building is the 323-foot-high Victoria Tower.

Houses of Parliament Tips

The only guided tour nonresidents can go on is the paid-for (£14) tour offered on Saturday or during August and September (book through www.ticketmaster.co.uk).

However, nonresidents are able to watch debates when Parliament is in session if they wait in line for tickets. Embassies and High Commissions often have a quota of debate tickets available to their citizens, which can help you avoid long queues.If you’re pressed for time, queues for the House of Lords are often shorter than for the House of Commons. The easiest time to get into the Commons is during an evening session—Parliament is still sitting if the top of the Clock Tower is illuminated.

The most romantic view of the Houses is from the opposite (south) bank, across Lambeth Bridge. It is especially dramatic at night when floodlighted green and gold.

St. Stephen’s Entrance, St. Margaret St., | Westminster | SW1 0AA | 020/7219–4272 or 0844/847–1672 | www.parliament.uk/visiting | Free; £14 Aug. and Sept. tours (weekdays) and Sat. through the year (must book ahead) | Call to confirm hrs | Westminster.

Fodor’s Choice | National Gallery.

Standing proudly on the north side of Trafalgar Square is one of the world’s supreme art collections, with more than 2,300 masterpieces on show. Picasso, van Gogh, Michelangelo, Leonardo, Monet, Turner, and more—all for free.

National Gallery Highlights

This brief selection is your jumping-off point, but there are hundreds more, enough to fill a full day. In chronological order: (1) Van Eyck (circa 1395–1441), The Arnolfini Portrait—a solemn couple holds hands, the fish-eye mirror behind them mysteriously illuminating what can’t be seen from the front view. (2) Holbein (1497–1543), The Ambassadors—two wealthy visitors from France stand surrounded by what were considered luxury goods at the time. Note the elongated skull at the bottom of the painting, which takes shape when viewed from an angle. (3) Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519), The Virgin and Child—this exquisite black-chalk “Burlington Cartoon” has the master’s most haunting Mary. (4) Constable (1776–1837), The Hay Wain—rendered overfamiliar by too many greeting cards, this is the definitive image of golden-age rural England. (5) Turner (1775–1851), Rain, Steam and Speed: The Great Western Railway, an astonishing whirl of rain, mist, steam, and locomotion (spot the hare). (6) Caravaggio (1573–1610), The Supper at Emmaus—a cinematically lightened, freshly resurrected Christ blesses bread in an astonishingly domestic vision from the master of chiaroscuro. (7) Seurat (1859–91), Bathers at Asnières—this static summer day’s idyll is one of the pointillist extraordinaire’s best-known works. (8) Botticelli (1445–1510), Venus and Mars—Mars sleeps, exhausted by the love goddess, oblivous to the lance wielded by mischievous cherubs.

National Gallery Tips

Color coding throughout the galleries helps you keep track of the period you’re immersed in.

Begin at an “Art Start” terminal in the Sainsbury Wing or East Wing Espresso Bar. The interactive screens give you access to information on all of the museum’s holdings; you can choose your favorites, and print out a free personal tour map.

Want some stimulation? Try a free weekday lunchtime lecture, or Ten Minute Talk, which illuminates the story behind a key work of art.

One-hour free, guided tours start at the Sainsbury Wing daily at 11:30 and 2:30.

If you are eager for even more insight into the art, pick up a themed audio guide, which takes in about 20 paintings.

If you visit during school holidays, don’t miss special programs for children. There are also free Family Sundays with special talks for children and their parents.

Trafalgar Sq. | WC2N 5DN | 020/7747–2885 |

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