London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [2]
The City. London’s Wall Street might be the oldest part of the capital, but thanks to futuristic skyscrapers and a sleek Millennium Bridge, it looks like the newest. Fans of history won’t be short-changed, however: head for the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral, the storybook Tower Bridge, and grisly tales from the Tower of London.
The East End. Once famed for the 19th-century slums immortalized by Charles Dickens, today the area has become the razor-sharp cutting edge of London’s contemporary art scene. For spit-and-sawdust sensations of market London on the weekend, dive headfirst into the wares at Spitalfields, Petticoat Lane, Brick Lane (popular for curry houses and bagel bakeries), and Columbia Road’s much-loved flower market.
The South Bank. Die-hard culture vultures could spend a lifetime here. The Southbank Centre—including the Royal National Theatre and Royal Festival Hall, the National Film Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, the Design Museum, and the Tate Modern—pretty much seals the artistic deal. Or put it all in sweeping perspective from high up on the London Eye.
Kensington, Chelsea, and Knightsbridge. Although the many boutiques of the King’s Road have lost much of their heady 1960s swagger, the museums are as awe-inspiring as ever. The playful Science Museum and the magnificently overblown Natural History Museum are crucial must-sees for kids and toddlers. High St Ken (Kensington High Street) is slightly more affordable than the King’s Road; otherwise, flash your cash at London’s snazziest department stores, Harrods and Harvey Nichols (“Harvey Nicks” to insiders).
Notting Hill and Bayswater. For that effortlessly hip North London demeanor, hang out in its coolest residential post code. Around Portobello Road, Notting Hill Gate is a trendsetting square mile of multi-ethnicity, galleries, bijous shops, and see-and-be-seen-in restaurants. Bayswater mixes gaudy Arab fashions and fresh-food shops; some think it has an appealing edginess, others a nouveau-riche élan.
Regent’s Park and Hampstead. For poetic inspiration, visit Keats House, where the poet penned his immortal “Ode to a Nightingale.” Villagelike Hampstead is a must: cozy and wonderful streets, sidewalk cafés, delis, and outdoor swimming on the Heath in “the Lido.”
Greenwich. Quaint Thames-side streets make for an excellent rummaging ground for trendy antiques. Throw in some brilliant sights, Christopher Wren architecture, and the Greenwich Meridian Line, and you have one of the best excursions beyond the cut-and-thrust of central London.
The Thames Upstream. As an idyllic retreat from the city, stroll around London’s stately gardens and enjoy a beer close by once-powerful palaces at Chiswick, Kew, Richmond, and Putney. Better yet, take a river cruise along Old Father Thames for views of rolling greenery, and land up at the famous maze of Hampton Court Palace, England’s version of Versailles.
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WHEN TO GO
The heaviest tourist season runs mid-April through mid-October, with another peak around Christmas—though the tide never really ebbs. Spring is the time to see the countryside and the royal London parks and gardens at their freshest; fall to enjoy near-ideal exploring conditions. In late summer, be warned: air-conditioning is rarely found in places other than department stores, modern restaurants, hotels, and cinemas in London. Winter can be rather dismal, but all the theaters, concerts, and exhibitions go full speed ahead, and festive Christmas lights bring a glow. For a schedule of festivals, check | www.visitbritain.com.
WHEN NOT