London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [210]
STRATFORD ENVIRONS
The two remaining stops on the Shakespeare trail are just outside Stratford.
Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, the early home of the playwright’s wife, is perhaps the most picturesque thatched cottage in the world. It has been gorgeously restored to reflect the comfortable middle-class Hathaway life. You can walk here from town—it’s just over a mile from central Stratford. | Cottage La., | Shottery | CV37 9HH | 01789/204016 | www.shakespeare.org.uk | £7.50 | Apr.–Oct., daily 9–5; Nov.–Mar., daily 10–4.
Mary Arden’s Farm uses 16th-century methods to grow food on its working farm. This stop is great for kids, who can see the lambs and calves, listen as the farmers explain their work in the fields, and watch the cooks prepare food in the Tudor farmhouse kitchen. This site was formerly referred to as Mary Arden’s House, and believed to be where Shakespeare’s mother grew up. In late 2000, research findings based on newly discovered real-estate records revealed that the real Mary Arden’s Farm, hitherto known as Glebe Farm, was actually nearby and (thankfully) already owned by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust. | Wilmcote | CV37 9UN | 01789/204016, 01789/293455 for information on special events | www.shakespeare.org.uk | £9.50; children £5.50 | Nov.–Mar. closed; Apr.–Oct., daily 10–5.
Some 8 mi north of Stratford in the medieval town of Warwick, Warwick Castle fulfills the most clichéd Camelot daydreams. This medieval, fortified, much-restored, castellated, moated, landscaped (by Capability Brown) castle, now managed by the experts at Madame Tussauds, is a true period museum—complete with dungeons and a torture chamber, state rooms, and the occasional battle reenactment or joust. Note: It gets very crowded in summer, when lines for tickets, as well as food and drink, can be long, so it’s not for those looking for a quiet, historic retreat to explore. Tickets are cheaper if purchased in advance on the Web site, and you’ll also avoid some lines. | Castle La. off Mill St., | Warwick | CV34 4QU | 01926/495421, 0871/265–2000 24-hr information line | www.warwick-castle.co.uk | £19.95–£25.45 on the day, £14.36–£20.36 online | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5; last admission 30 min before closing.
WHERE TO EAT IN STRATFORD-UPON-AVON
The Black Swan/The Dirty Duck.
£–££ | BRITISH | The only pub in Britain to be licensed under two names (the more informal one came courtesy of American GIs who were stationed here during WWII), this is one of Stratford’s most celebrated pubs—it has attracted actors since the 18th-century thespian David Garrick’s days. A little veranda overlooks the theaters and the river here. Along with a pint of bitter, it’s a fine place to enjoy English grill specialties, as well as braised oxtail and honey-roasted duck. You can also choose from an assortment of bar meals. | Waterside | KT11 1NG | 01789/297312 | AE, MC, V.
Lambs of Sheep Street.
££ | BRITISH | Sit downstairs to appreciate the hardwood floors and oak beams of this local epicurean favorite; upstairs, the look is more contemporary. The updates of tried-and-true dishes include rib-eye steak with vine tomatoes, and slow-roasted lamb shank. Daily fish specials keep the menu seasonal, and the desserts are fantastic. A £11.50 fixed-price lunch is a good deal for two courses. | 12 Sheep St. | CV37 6EF | 01789/292554 | www.lambsrestaurant.co.uk | Reservations essential | MC, V.
The Opposition.
££–£££ | BRITISH | Hearty, warming meals are offered at this informal, family-friendly restaurant, more commonly known as the “Oppo,” in a 16th-century building on the main dining street near the theaters. The American and modern European dishes on the menu win praise from the locals. Try the roast chicken. | 13 Sheep St. | CV37 6EF | 01789/269980 | www.theoppo.co.uk | MC, V.
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24 mi (39 km) west of London.