London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [26]
St. James’s Palace.
With its solitary sentry posted at the gate, this surprisingly small palace of Tudor brick was once a home for many British sovereigns, including the first Elizabeth and Charles I, who spent his last night here before his execution. Today it’s the working office of another Charles—the Prince of Wales. The front door actually opens right onto the street, but he always uses a back entrance to various departments of the Royal Household. Matters to ponder as you look (you can’t go in): the palace was named after a hospital for women lepers that stood here during the 11th century; Henry VIII had it built; foreign ambassadors to Britain are still accredited to the Court of St. James’s even though it has rarely been a primary royal residence; the present Queen made her first speech here; and after the death of a monarch, the accession of the new sovereign is announced by the Garter King of Arms from the Proclamation Gallery overlooking Friary Court. Friary Court out front is a splendid setting for Trooping the Colour, part of the Queen’s official birthday celebrations. Everyone loves to take a snapshot of the scarlet-coated guardsman standing sentry outside the imposing Tudor gateway. Note that the Changing the Guard ceremony at St. James’s Palace occurs only on days when the guard at Buckingham Palace is changed. See entry for Buckingham Palace for details. | Friary Court, St. James’s | SW1A 1BS | www.royal.gov.uk | Green Park.
St. Margaret’s Church.
Dwarfed by its neighbor, Westminster Abbey, St. Margaret’s was founded in the 11th century and rebuilt between 1488 and 1523. As the unofficial parish church of the House of Commons, St Margaret’s is much sought after for weddings and memorial services. Samuel Pepys, Chaucer, and John Milton worshipped here, and Winston Churchill tied the knot here in 1908. Since 1681, a pew off the south aisle has been set aside for the Speaker of the House (look for the carved portcullis). The stained glass in the north windows is classically Victorian, facing abstract glass from John Piper in the south, replacing the originals, which were ruined in WWII. | St. Margaret’s St., Parliament Sq., Westminster | SW1P 3JX | 020/7654–4847 | www.westminster-abbey.org/st-margarets | Weekdays 9:30–3:30, Sat. 9–1:30, Sun. 2–5 (entry via east door). Church may close on short notice for services, so call ahead | Westminster.
St. Martin-in-the-Fields.
One of London’s best-loved and most welcoming of churches has been enhanced both inside and out by expensive and time-consuming refurbishment work; the building’s array of functions continues unabated. It’s a welcome sight for the homeless who have sought soup and shelter at this church—named after the saint who helped beggars—since 1914. For historical detailing, take the worthwhile audio tour. The church is also a haven for music lovers; the internationally known Academy of St. Martin-in-the-Fields was founded here, and a popular program of concerts continues today. (Although the interior is a wonderful setting, the wooden benches can make it hard to give your undivided