London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [30]
As the Wellington Museum, the duke’s former residence has been faithfully restored, down to Wellesley’s uniforms, weapons, a fine collection of paintings (partially looted from his war campaigns), and his porcelain and plate collections acquired as a result of his military success, such as a Sévres dessert service commissioned by Napoléon for his empress, Josephine. His extensive art collection, much of it presented to him by admirers, includes works by Brueghel, Van Dyck, and Rubens, as well as the famous Veláquez portrait of Pope Innocent X and a portrait of Wellington himself on horseback by Goya. There are also numerous portraits of military comrades, allies, and even his main adversary, Napoléon Bonaparte. Unmissable, in every sense, is the gigantic Canova statue of a nude (but fig-leafed) Napoléon, which presides over the grand staircase that leads to the many elegant reception rooms in Apsley House. The sculptor chose to present his subject, at the time the most powerful man in Europe, as Mars the Peacemaker, depicting the short and stocky emperor as a classical god more than 11 feet tall with a perfect physique. Even so, Napoléon wasn’t happy with either the nudity or the athleticism of Canova’s approach and ordered the marble statue to be hidden behind a screen.
The free audio guide highlights the most significant works and the superb decor, notably the stunning Waterloo Gallery, where an annual banquet for officers who fought beside Wellington was held. With its heavily sculpted and gilded ceiling, its feast of old-master paintings on red damask walls, and commanding candelabra, it’s a veritable orgy of opulence. Special events take place on the annual Waterloo weekend and occasionally on Waterloo Day (June 18) itself, in addition to other special events throughout the year. Call or check the Web site for details. | 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, Mayfair | W1J 7JZ | 020/7499–5676 | www.english-heritage.org.uk | Mar.–Oct., Wed.–Sun. and bank holiday Mon. 11–5; Nov.–Feb., Wed.–Sun. 11–4 | £6, joint ticket with Wellington Arch £7.40 | Hyde Park Corner.
Bond Street.
This world-class shopping haunt is divided into northern “New” (1710) and southern “Old” (1690) halves. You can spot the juncture by a bronzed bench on which Franklin D. Roosevelt sits companionably next to Winston Churchill. On New Bond Street you’ll find Sotheby’s, the world-famous auction house, at No. 35, as well as upscale retailers like Asprey’s, Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Georg Jensen, and Church’s. Among the fastidiously well-dressed pedestrians there are even more opportunities to flirt with financial ruin on Old Bond Street: flagship boutiques of top-end designers like Chanel, Gucci, and Yves St. Laurent; an array of fine jewelers including Tiffany’s; and art dealers Colnaghi, Spink Leger, and Agnew’s. Cork Street, which parallels the top half of Old Bond Street, is where London’s top dealers in contemporary art have their galleries—you’re welcome to browse. | Bond St., Mayfair | W1 | Bond St., Green Park.
Burlington Arcade.
Perhaps the finest of Mayfair’s enchanting covered shopping alleys is the second oldest in London, built in 1819 for Lord Cavendish, to stop hoi polloi from jettisoning rubbish (oyster shells in particular) into his garden at Burlington House, behind the arcade. Top-hatted watchmen called Beadles—the world’s smallest private police force—still