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London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [32]

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statues of creative giants J.W.M. Turner and Thomas Gainsborough. The John Madejski Fine Rooms provide free art as well (but they are sometimes closed) and you can join free tours of part of the RA collection; there are also lectures on art and family programs. Further exhibition space exists at the Burlington Gardens end, reached via Burlington Arcade. The RA has an active program of temporary exhibitions, including the hugely successful “Byzantium” in 2008. Every June for the past 240 years, the RA has put on its Summer Exhibition, a huge and always surprising collection of art by living Royal Academicians and a plethora of other contemporary artists. | Burlington House, Piccadilly, Mayfair | W1J 0BD | 020/7300–8000, 0207/300–5839 lectures, 0207/300–5995 family programs | www.royalacademy.org.uk | From £12; prices vary with exhibition | Sat.–Thurs. 10–6, Fri. 10–10; tours on Tues. 1, Wed.–Fri. 1 and 3, Sat. 11:30 | Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.

QUICK BITES: The Royal Academy Restaurant (0207/300–5608) has hot dishes at lunchtime, good vegetarian options, and an extensive salad selection that is inexpensive for such a posh location. The walls are covered in Stanley Spencer murals. It’s open weekdays 10–5:30, with a dinner menu on Friday from 6:15 to 10:30; live jazz takes place Friday nights, so book ahead. For something a little less substantial, have a snack at the Gallery Café, which offers a range of muffins, sandwiches, and pastries. Outdoor tables are available in the summer.

Selfridges.

With its row of massive Ionic columns, this huge store was opened three years after Harry Gordon Selfridge came to London from Chicago in 1906. Now Selfridges is comparable to Harrods in size and scope, and, since investing in major face-lift operations, to Knightsbridge’s Harvey Nichols in designer cachet. | 400 Oxford St., Mayfair | W1A 1AB | 020/7629–1234 | www.selfridges.com | Mon.–Sat. 9:30–9, Sun. noon–6 | Marble Arch, Bond Street.

St. James’s Church.

Blitzed by the German Luftwaffe in 1940 and not restored under 1954, this was one of the last of Sir Christopher Wren’s London churches—and his personal favorite. Completed in 1684, it envelops one of Grinling Gibbon’s finest works, an ornate limewood reredos (the screen behind the altar). Brought here in 1691, the organ is a survivor of Whitehall Palace. A new restoration project is in the planning stages while the church remains a lively place, with all manner of lectures and (some free) concerts. The prayer screen behind the votive candles is pinned with written prayers, many quite poignant. A café enjoys a fine location right alongside the church, while a small, sedate garden is tucked away at the rear. The market out front is full of surprises, hosting antiques on Tuesday, and arts and crafts from Wednesday to Saturday. | 197 Piccadilly, St. James’s | W1J 9LL | 020/7734–4511, 020/7381–0441 concert program and tickets | www.st-james-piccadilly.org | Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.

Wellington Arch.

Opposite the Duke of Wellington’s mansion, Apsley House, this majestic stone arch surveys the busy traffic rushing around Hyde Park Corner. Designed by Decimus Burton and built in 1828, it was created as a grand entrance to the west side of London and echoes the design of that other landmark gate, Marble Arch. Both were triumphal arches commemorating Britain’s victory against France in the Napoleonic Wars, and both were moved after their construction to ease the Victorian traffic situation. The Wellington Arch was constructed at the same time as the Hyde Park’s Triumphal Screen (also Burton’s design); you’ll see the same highly ornamental green gates within the Wellington Arch. Atop the building, the Angel of Peace descends on the quadriga, or four-horse chariot of war. This replaced the Duke of Wellington on his horse, which was considered too large and hence moved to army barracks in Aldershot. A step inside the arch reveals the stories behind the building and statue, and explores other great arches around the world. Without doubt, the highlight is to walk around the top

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