London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [44]
There are many starting points to explore The City, but Temple Bar Memorial, at the top of the Strand, is the site of the only surviving entry point—the gate itself was moved closer to St. Paul’s (brick by brick) in 1878 to widen the road. Fleet Street, the site of England’s first printing press, was the undisputed seat of British journalism until the 1980s. The nearby church of St. Bride’s, recognizable by its tiered wedding-cake steeple, is a Sir Christopher Wren mini-masterpiece and still the church for journalists.
Nestled behind Fleet Street is Dr. Johnson’s House, former home of the man who claimed that to be bored of London was to be bored of life and author of Dictionary of the English Language. Eastward, London’s most distinctive building, St. Paul’s Cathedral, designed by Wren, has clear views of the Millennium Bridge, the pedestrian-only steel suspension bridge that links The City to the South Bank of the Thames. The Central Criminal Court (nicknamed Old Bailey, and home to London’s most intriguing criminal trials) lies to the north, as does the 800-year-old Smithfield Market, whose Victorian halls are the site of a daily early-morning meat market and the ancient church of St. Bartholomew the Great and St. Bartholomew Hospital, both begun in 1123.
The Museum of London, where archaeological displays include a portion of the original Roman Wall that ringed The City, is a gateway to the modern Barbican Centre, a complex of arts venues and apartments. To the southeast lies the Guildhall, the site of the only Roman amphitheater in London. Nearby, the church of St. Mary-le-Bow and the narrow maze of streets just to its south, around Bow Lane, are great shopping haunts.
At the epicenter of The City is a powerful architectural triumvirate: the Bank of England, the Royal Exchange, and Mansion House, where the lord mayor of The City of London (not to be confused with the mayor of London, who works from City Hall on the South Bank) lives and entertains. The Monument was built to commemorate the Great Fire of London of 1666. Northeast of its 202-foot-high tower are excellent views of two unmissable members of The City skyline: the Lloyd’s of London Building, and the Swiss Re Tower, popularly known as “the Gherkin.” From here, the river leads to one of London’s most absorbing and bloody attractions, the Tower of London. Tower Bridge is a suitably giddying finale.
GETTING ORIENTED
TOP REASONS TO GO
Tower of London: Nowhere else does London’s history come to life so vividly as in this minicity of melodramatic towers stuffed to bursting with heraldry, quite a few pints of royal blood, and treasure, most notably, the stunning Crown Jewels (bring sunglasses).
St. Paul’s Cathedral: The symbolic heart of London, St. Paul’s rides high on the skyline although now nudged by ugly skyscrapers—once inside, however, you’ll revel in Sir Christopher Wren’s 17th-century masterpiece.
Museum of London: Oliver Cromwell’s death mask, Queen Victoria’s crinolined gowns, Selfridges’ Art Déco elevators, and a Diorama of the Great Fire (sound effects! flickering flames!) all make this a gem of a museum.
The Millennium Bridge: Hurtle the centuries with this promenade between the Tate Modern and St. Paul’s (with a great river view).
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME
The “Square Mile” is as compact as the nickname suggests, with little distance between points of interest, making it easy to dip into The City for an afternoon stroll. For full immersion in the Tower of London, however, set aside half a day, especially if seeing the Crown Jewels is a priority. Allow an hour minimum each for the Museum of London, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the Tower Bridge. On weekends, without the scurrying suits, The City is nearly deserted, making it hard to find lunch—and yet this is when the major attractions are at their busiest.
GETTING THERE