London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [47]
Fodor’s Choice | Tower Bridge.
Despite its medieval, fairy-tale appearance, this is a Victorian youngster. Constructed of steel, then clothed in Portland stone, the Horace Jones masterpiece was deliberately styled in the Gothic persuasion to complement the Tower next door, and it’s famous for its enormous bascules—the 1,200-ton “arms,” which open to allow large ships through. This still happens occasionally, but when river traffic was dense, the bascules were raised about five times a day.
The Tower Bridge Exhibition is a child-friendly tour where you can discover how one of the world’s most famous bridges actually works and then head out onto the walkways for the wonderful city views. First, take in the romance of the panoramas from the east and west walkways between those grand turrets. On the east are the modern superstructures and ships of Docklands, and on the west is the best look at the steel-and-glass “futuristic mushroom” that is Greater London Assembly’s City Hall, the Tower of London, St. Paul’s, and the Monument. Then it’s back down to explore the Victorian engine rooms and discover the inner workings, which you learn about through hands-on displays and films. | Tower Bridge Rd., The City | SE1 2UP | 020/7403–3761 | www.towerbridge.org.uk | £7 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 9:30–6; last admission 30 min before closing | Tower Hill.
Fodor’s Choice | Tower of London.
Nowhere else does London’s history come to life so vividly as in this minicity of 20 towers filled with heraldry and treasure, the intimate details of lords and dukes and princes and sovereigns etched in the walls (literally, in some places), and quite a few pints of royal blood spilled on the stones. This is one of Britain’s most popular sights—the Crown Jewels are here—and you can avoid lines by buying a ticket in advance on the Web site, by phone, at any tube station, or from the automatic kiosks on arrival. The visitor center provides an introduction to the Tower. Allow at least three hours for exploring, and take time to stroll along the battlements for a wonderful overview. The Crown Jewels are worth the wait, the White Tower is essential, and the Medieval Palace and Bloody Tower should at least be breezed through.
Today’s Tower has seen everything, as a palace, barracks, a mint for producing coins, an archive, an armory, and the Royal Menagerie (which formed the basis of the London Zoo). The stunning opulence of the Crown Jewels, kept on-site in the heavily fortified Jewel House is a must-see. Most of all, though, the Tower is known for death: it’s been a place of imprisonment, torture, and execution for the realm’s most notorious traitors.
A person was mighty privileged to be beheaded in the peace and seclusion of Tower Green instead of before the mob at Tower Hill. In fact, only seven people were ever important enough—among them Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives two and five of Henry VIII’s six; Elizabeth I’s friend Robert Devereux, earl of Essex; and the nine-day queen, Lady Jane Grey, age 16.
Free tours depart every half hour or so from the Middle Tower. They are conducted by the Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters, dressed in resplendent navy-and-red (scarlet-and-gold on special occasions) Tudor outfits. Beefeaters have been guarding the Tower since Henry VII appointed them in 1485. One of them, the Yeoman Warder Raven Master, is responsible for making life comfortable for the ravens (six birds plus reserves) that live in Lanthorn Tower. It’s an important duty, because if the ravens were to desert the Tower, goes the legend, the kingdom would fall. Today, the Tower takes no chances: The ravens’ wings are clipped.
In prime position stands the oldest part of the Tower and the most conspicuous of its buildings, the White Tower; the other towers were built in the next few centuries. This central keep was begun in 1078 by William the Conqueror; Henry III (1207