London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [64]
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Getting Oriented | Kensington and Chelsea | Knightsbridge
Updated by Ellin Stein
Even in these supposedly democratic days, you still sometimes hear people say that the only place to live in London is in the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea (or “K&C” as the locals call it). Head here to find London’s ritziest pieces of real estate: Belgravia and Chelsea, the eastern and southern borders of K&C. Chelsea is where Henry James died, T. S. Eliot lived, and James McNeill Whistler painted his “nocturnes.” Today, the artists have moved out and the Gettys have moved in. Belgravia is another enclave of posh houses and splendid embassies. Past this streetscape, however, you’ll find Museum Central—a cavalcade of great museums, including Victoria & Albert, the Natural History Museum, the Science Museum, and Kensington Palace. And in adjacent Knightsbridge, Britain’s reputation as a nation of shopkeepers is well kept—this is must-go territory for shopaholics.
GETTING ORIENTED
TOP REASONS TO GO
The V&A Museum: The greatest museum of decorative arts in the world—even Edwardians got “interactive” by sketching in the Sculpture Court (stools are still provided today).
Natural History Museum: Watch children catch on that the museum’s animatronic T. rex has noticed them—and is licking its dinosaur chops. Then see some of those fearsome teeth for real in the dinosaur room.
Kensington Palace and Gardens: Address to everyone from Queen Victoria to Princess Diana, this holds an array of treasures, including the Royal Dress Collection.
Harrods’ Food Hall: The granddaddy of all London department stores, even Harrods’ decor glitters—note the shiny mosaic of fish in its famed food hall.
Linley Sambourne House: Stuffed with Edwardian antiques, 18 Stafford Terrace is almost like a theater set for The Importance of Being Ernest.
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME
You could fill three or four days in this borough: A shopping stroll along the length of the King’s Road is easily half a day. Add lunch and some time weaving back and forth between the King’s Road and the river and you can fill a day. Give yourself a half-day, at least, for the Victoria & Albert Museum and a half-day for either the Science or Natural History Museum.
One Perfect Day in Kensington Chelsea: three hours of serious shopping on the Kings Road and Brompton Cross followed by a pub lunch; three hours in the VA (Costume collections, Arts & Crafts designers William Morris, Burne-Jones, Charles Rennie MacIntosh); tea at the Orangery, followed by a leisurely stroll in Kensington Gardens.
GETTING THERE
There are several useful Tube stations for this area: Sloane Square and High Street Kensington on the District and Circle lines; Earl’s Court, Kensington, Knightsbridge, and Hyde Park Corner on the Piccadilly Line; South Kensington and Gloucester Road on the District, Circle, and Piccadilly lines; and Victoria Station on the District, Circle, and Victoria lines. The area is also well served by buses from the city center. For Kensington High Street take routes 9, 10, 27, 28, 49 or C1; for the King’s Road take routes 11, 19, 22 or 211.
FEELING PECKISH?
The Café at the V&A (Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Rd. | SW7 2RL | 0207/942–2500) serves breakfast, light snacks, tea, and full meals throughout the day, all in a grand room at modest prices. You can eat in the courtyard if the weather’s good, or have a buffet supper on late nights. Stop by just to see the original Arts and Crafts decor, one of William Morris