London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [75]
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME
Depending on your pace and inclination, Marylebone, Regent’s Park, and Hampstead can realistically be covered in a day. It might be best to spend the morning in Hampstead, then head south toward Regent’s Park and Marylebone in the afternoon so that you’re closer to central London come nightfall, if that is where your hotel is located.
GETTING THERE
Reaching Hampstead by Tube is as easy as it looks: Simply take the Edgware branch of the Northern Line to the Hampstead station, or the overground North London line to Hampstead Heath. The south side of Hampstead Heath can also be reached by the Gospel Oak station on the North London line. To get to Regent’s Park, take the Bakerloo Line to Regent’s Park Tube station or, for Primrose Hill, the Chalk Farm stop on the Northern Line.
SAFETY
It's best to stay out of Hampstead Heath and Regent's Park proper late at night unless there's an event (such as a play or concert) taking place. Camden High Street and the Canal towpath should be avoided after dark.
A GOOD WALK
There really are no bad walks to be had in Hampstead. Once there, the village is best explored on foot, and Hampstead Heath will lead you by way of marked footpaths on a healthy jaunt through its sprawling green spaces. The neighborhoods around Regent's Park—as well as the park itself—are also best explored on foot.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Much like New York City’s Greenwich Village, the cliché about the enclaves north of Regent’s Park (Primrose Hill, Belsize Park, and Hampstead) is that several of the residents claim to be artists—and yet the cost of a coffee at a café along Regent’s Park Road will run you as much as, if not more than, one in central London. In the last decade, real estate prices have skyrocketed, and the elephants of the London Zoo now call some of the best-dressed folks in town neighbors.
In the early 18th century, the commercial development of the mineral springs in Hampstead led to its success as a spa; people traveled from miles around to drink the pure waters from Hampstead Wells, and small cottages were hastily built to accommodate the influx. Though the spa phenomenon was short-lived, Hampstead remained a favorite place for many artistic figures whose legacies still permeate the landscape.
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TOP ATTRACTIONS
Fodor’s Choice | Hampstead Heath.
For an escape from the ordered prettiness of Hampstead, head to the Heath—unique remnant of London’s original countryside with habitats ranging from wide grasslands to ancient woodlands—spread over some 791 acres to the north. Parliament Hill, one of the highest points in London, offers a stunning panorama over the city. There are signposted paths, but these can be confusing. Maps are available from Kenwood House, or the Education Centre near the Lido off Gordon House Road, where you can also get details about the history of the Heath and the flora and fauna growing there. An excellent café near the Athletics Field offers light refreshment under the trees. | Hampstead | NW5 1QR | 020/7482–7073 Heath Education Centre | www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/hampstead | Gospel Oak or Hampstead Heath North London Overground Line from Highbury & Islington underground for south of Heath; Hampstead underground, then walk through Flask Walk, Well Walk for east of Heath; Golders Green underground, then Bus 210, 268 to Whitestone Pond for north and west of Heath.
Highgate Cemetery.
Highgate is not the oldest cemetery in London, but it is probably the best known. When the cemetery was consecrated in 1839, Victorians came from miles around to appreciate the ornate headstones, the impressive tombs, and the view. Such was its popularity that 19 acres on the other side of the road were acquired in 1850, and this additional East Cemetery contains what may be the most visited grave, of Karl Marx, as well as that of George Eliot, among other famous names. Much of the west side’s 17 acres were once grounds belonging to Sir William Ashurst,